FH - more polishing

 A bit of a workshop tidy this afternoon left me with the opportunity to move the primary side on a little. I can't fix anything until the secondary chain and gearbox sprocket is fitted, but we'll get there.

Here's a few pictures:

FH - fitting stuff and testing the dynamo

 A few minutes in the workshop yesterallowed a bit more progress on the Huntmaster. The headlamp is now fitted, with the grommet at the top. This seems to be the only way I can fit it and still allow access to the rim clamp:

Next, the tank badges. All this needed was to clear the paint out of the threads with a 3BA tap and fit the badges with some short countersunk stainless screws from stock:

Finally, I've refitted the toolbox knob using a plain washer on the outside, Thackeray washer on the inside, another plain washer and two nuts - curiously the knob appears to have a BSF thread?

Last thing for today, and this is a bit lazy, is to look at the dynamo. I've cleaned it, motored it and fitted it - it motors ok and in the right direction so it is working and polarised correctly:

It's smooth and quiet, so maybe I won't overhaul it just yet. The cork washer is missing though, so I will need to make one:

One thing I forgot - I've fitted the oil line unions to the engine, with new washers from the gasket set. The bottom one is the feed, the top is the return:

FH - assembling the inner timing case

 Lots of work faces now, but an interim look at the cylinder head reveals that the valves and guides are beyond use - there is a couple of millimetres of rock at the edge of the valve head, with the valve half out of the guide. 

So, while I wait for a new set of guides, valves and springs let's start on the timing gear. Fitting the pinions is straightforward once I have deburred the Woodruff keys. The timing is set to the marks:

I've cleaned the dynamo straps since you have to have the inner timing case off to fit them. I'll plate these at some stage if I'm not too busy riding the bike:

The oil pressure release valve has been through the ultrasonic bath and has a new 5/16" ball. The old one was grooved and rusty:

Next, for the record, the pump drive washer is fitted:

I've made a small spacer from gasket paper for the end of the pump. Each of the stud threads has been cleaned up and fitted with blue Loctite thread lock:

I've used the original deep nuts - I've flattened these and recut the threads, adding a chamfer:

If you read my last post, you'll know that there is supposed to be a thrust washer in the nose of the pump, under the circlip. It needs to be 14.5 mm OD x 2 mm thick.

I had a bit of 3/4" EN11 in the lathe to make a late-pattern QD hub nut spanner, so I've used a bit to make the thrust washer:

I've left the pip in it to make it easier to get out. Next, the pump drive lock washer - the inner tang fits in a groove (like a keyway only less deep) in the end of the crankshaft. The tang on the new one is much wider than the remains of the one on the old washer  - time to get the needle files out:

With that in place, we can knock the tab washer down. On the crankshaft, I have bent the washer over both the lock nut and the pump drive sleeve:

For the record, the cam drive tab washer is knocked down too:

I've also finished polishing the timing cases:

I had to clean a lot of carbon off the timed breather sleeve before it would fit, and relieve a pip on the outside. It's fitted with the thickest cork washer available (5/32") and the gasket is coated with Wellseal. I've only done the inner face for the moment as I will want to take it off again.

Test fit:

That's it for now. Next I will probably fit the dynamo drive sprocket and it's seal, but then to do any more in here I need the dynamo and the Automatic Timing Device. Both of these bits need rebuilding.

FH - oil pump

Over three years ago now I pulled this sludgy oil pump out of the timing case, planning to look at it and consider it for further use. It would barely turn.

Since then, much has come and gone (some of it twice) but I have stripped the pump and freed the high spots in the drive that caused the seizure. With these Mazak/Zamak castings, impurities in the alloy corrode and cause the casting to swell and crack, in this case causing high spots in the drive gear bore and damage to the circlip recess - though fortunately nothing irreparable. 

The body casting had a bit of carbon in the smaller bores:

The ultrasonic bath fixed that, and revealed some scoring. If this leads to excessive wet-sumping we will have to replace the pump.

With it all back together and working, I realised there was a thrust washer missing, which is supposed to fit under the circlip. I'll have to make one.