Friday, 16 August 2019

Cleaning Turn 5 - B12 and Basic Training

Another Thursday, another cleaning turn. I'm surprised to rouse at about 5:15 to a relative dark morning, a reminder that the days are not getting any longer. Today dawn is 5:36, and it's rather overcast and a little gloomy but hey, it's a railway day, so bring it on.

The railway runs several training sessions for cleaning grade staff throughout the year, and all cleaners are obliged to attend a class, called Cleaner's Basic Training, with their first ten turns. There is a class available today, so despite the fact that there are two cleaners already rostered I have signed up as Cleaner 3 today.

As it happens, Cleaner 1 doesn't turn up so it is just me and Peter today; Driver Nigel is in very early too, and as there is nothing on the board telling us which loco is allocated to the Loco 1 slot (due off-shed at 09:16) and Loco 2 (due off shed at 09:31) we divide up the work between as and get to it.

Lucky for me Peter takes Loco 1, the Standard 4MT which is going to probably going to be Loco 1 and I take Loco 2, the B12. There's only two of us so I am going to get to light up, the B12, which is a new experience for me.

But surely, a coal fire is a coal fire isn't it? Isn't one loco much the same as another? Well, not really, they are all a bit different; the grates and ashpans are different, fireboxes are different, fireholes, tenders and tools are different; they will present to you when you come on-shift in a different way - warm, cold, boiler water, pressure in the boiler etc., so getting your hands on different locomotives is really important and I guess we are lucky here at the NNR to have access to around seven resident locos, all quite different.

Before we start, I put a 'Not to be Moved' board on the lamp iron at the front. I check the water gauges and confirm that both gauges give the same reading and that the water in the boiler is past the top nut of the gauge - indicating that there is plenty of water above the firebox crown. If there wasn't enough water we would have to fill the boiler with a hose; this would take quite a lot of time that we don't have. Normally, the boiler is filled using the engine's injectors, but of course to do that it has to be in steam...

The B12 has been in service for several days, so the remains of yesterdays fire are quite warm. Here's my place of work for the next hour or so:

firehole

There is no drop grate on the B12 but fortunately yesterday's disposal crew have cleaned the fire well and I only need to rake this over. Had it been full of clinker, I would have been in the firebox pulling out firebars to get rid of it.

There's about 15 psi on the clock still:


Pete is down the other end, saving us both time by emptying both the B12's smokebox and the 4MT's smokebox at the same time - saves both of us getting brooms, barrows and shovels. I can't open the firebox while he has the smokebox open (we don't want cold draughts blowing through the boiler), so I collect buckets of rags and paraffin for both of us.

When he's finished I use the rake to move the ash around the grate to get it to drop through the bars into the ashpan. At this point, I can have a look around the firebox, so I stick my head through the firehole with the torch:


There's a few things amiss here. First, the baffle is still in place as you can see in the top right of the pictures. Forgetting to take this out means I have not properly inspected the fusible plugs, the brick arch or the crown stays; it will mess up my fire later as we will see.

Secondly, there are two weeping stays right in the middle of the picture. This means I have to go and find the Duty Fitter, which takes a while. I decided to carry on cleaning and preparing the fire while I wait - here I am cleaning under the firehole with the bent dart:


The fitter arrives and pronounces the firebox good to go, so I start shovelling coal into the firebox. The B12 has a long, narrow firebox, so it's quite an effort to get it to the front - made worse by the fact that I still haven't removed the baffle as every time I attempt to build the front of the fire, the shovel hits the baffle and the coal falls short.

Later in the day, during the training course Firing Instructor Paul shows me how to bounce the shovel off the bottom of the firehole and land the coal wherever you want it.

However, with a bit of raking I get the unlit fire how I want it and proceed to lay timber over the coal, followed by rags and finally we light up. We close the firehole and off she goes:


I rather suspect there haven't been any cleaners rostered since the loco went into service, judging by the soot over the paintwork. She'e quite a tall engine too, and you need ladders to clean much above the grab rails; most of the ladders had disappeared, but she looks good in this picture so it can't have been too bad.


Actually, I made two round trips behind the B12 the next day, with my Grandchildren - the bit at the top of the boiler, that I couldn't reach, was very obvious...

Next, time to clear up my stuff and for the loco to move back on the pit for ashing out.

Eagle eyed readers will notice that the rear driving wheels are right under the firebox, in common with many other 4-6-0 locomotives. Consequently, there is an arch in the ashpan to clear the rear axle and this means there are two ashpan doors and two screens, This is the front one: I'm about to put the pit hose lance in it and slake the ash, prior to raking it out:


I did the rear one first today, and here is Fireman Tony checking the screen is fitted correctly and will not fall out on the road:


I learned a valuable lesson today on PPE - don't ash out with your boiler suit top buttons undone. That oversight was rewarded with a small burn, courtesy of a marble-sized lump of ash dropping from the fire as I finished off raking out:


And that is more or less it for the B12 today. Here, driver Heidi looks on while Fitter Rudy drops a tonne of coal into the tender. While they wait for their scheduled departure time, Fireman Tony will trim that heap of coal to avoid anything falling off and inuring someone - crew or people on the platform.

He'll shovel most of that tonne today.


I took a moment to clean the buffer beams. These pipes are worth looking at: The big one in the middle at the top is the train brake vacuum hose; the smaller on to the left of the coupling is the steam brake hose; the one on the right, below the buffer beam is the steam heat hose.

Al these hoses need to be undone when uncoupling the train. The steam brake is not normally in service since it it the loco's own brake, but the steam heat pipe will, and it will be pressurised and hot. You must trun the steam heat off before arriving at the station to run around, to allow the system pressure to dissipate, and when you disconnect the hose you must hold it away from you.


Before we are down, we need to blow down. The water we have in the boiler, like all mains water has various impurities in it which appears as solids within the boiler, just like your kettle. Unlike your kettle, these impurities cause the water to foam, lifting liquid water through the regulator and into the cylinders - water is incompressible, so foaming or priming is both inefficient and potentially dangerous for the cylinders. To remove this possibility, we treat the water in the tender, we provide softened water from the tank at Sheringham, and we blow down the boiler each morning.

This is a job for the duty fitter, whose legs we see on the running board. He has just opened the blowdown valve which is located very low at the front of the boiler, just above the foundation ring - where most of the sludge will collect.


As you might expect, this creates clouds of steam



It also makes an unholy racket. The blowdown valve is connected to a silencer which you can see poking out behind the wheel, but still, it's quite noisy:


Next, It's cleaner's basic training which is conducted hands on around the workshop and which starts with a Personal Track Safety refresher and continues with signing on, PPE, and the noticeboard. then we move into the shop to talk locomotive technology using 'Wissington' as an example.

Wissington is currently lurking in the shed with no wheels - she needed new tyres, but on removing the old tyres one wheel was found to be loose on the axle, which then needed a new axle...


Wissington was built by Hudswell Clarke in 1938 for the British Sugar Corporation (BSC) and she is regarded as a member of the ‘Countess of Warwick class 0-6-0ST of which several were purchased by BSC.


She worked on small branch lines in the Fens collectively known as the Wissington Light Railway which linked a number of local farms with the Wissington sugar factory. Wissington in Norfolk is the site of British Sugar's largest refinery in the UK, it is also the largest in Europe. There has been a sugar factory there since 1925; none of the rest of the village remains. British Sugar has opened the UK's first bioethanol plant here.

The locomotive worked at the same location for virtually all of its working life, apart from a brief spell in Spalding, Lincolnshire and by the 1970s was the last steam engine remaining in private ownership in East Anglia. Chris Beckett approached the BSC in 1977 and the following year saw the locomotive donated to the Midland and Great Northern Joint Railway Society (M&GNJRS) and moved to Sheringham for preservation. After a lengthy restoration project the locomotive returned to steam in July 2012. The locomotive was on loaned from the M&GN JRS to the Mid Suffolk Railway where was operational.
The wheel-less Wissington was therefore the perfect subject to use to talk about wheels & tyres, axles, horn guides and axle boxes. With her front apron removed you can look at the cylinders and see the valve chests.

Wissington is a saddle tank though, and you cannot see much of her boiler. At Weybourne, NNR Engineering run a boiler repair business and there are usually several boilers around: the large one on the left is from a Bullied Pacific and has the characteristic welded steel firebox of Oliver Bulleid's design. The smaller one is a German locomotive; the tiny firebox in the middle is from a traction engine:


Inside the Bulleid boiler, looking toward the firebox tubeplate and showing the main steam pipe above:


Next, a talk about boiler fittings - water gauges, regulators, clacks and safety valves. This one is a BR standard 'pop' type safety valve from 92203 Black Prince:


Naturally moving on to injectors, we spent some time examining Wissington's simple live steam injectors and there operation, which produced a lot of questions and may have contributed to this 2 hour course lasting more than 3 1/2...



More in a couple of weeks.

Recent railway posts from this blog:

Cleaning turn 4 - Y14 again and worsted trimmings







Sunday, 11 August 2019

Ignition timing, and nearby jobs

Having fitted the new carburetter to the W/NG, I thought I would look over the ignition system before I shake it down any further. I was having trouble with the idle settings and I wanted to ensure the other maintenance settings were spot-on before I investigate the idle issue.

So this morning we are looking at ignition timing and some associated jobs. Our focus here is of course my 1942 Ariel W/NG, but the points are valid for any M01 magneto equipped bike - that's all the BSA pre-unit singles, Norton singles, Triumph singles & Royal Enfield singles.

Assemble tools

Get your tool kit ready. I always use the tools I have on the bike for jobs like this - next time you do it you might be grovelling about in the gutter, so it pays to make sure you have the right tools and that they fit the relevant fasteners.


For example, I once found my magneto spanner did not fit the points hexagon properly and needed to be opened slightly - I would not have been happy if I had discovered that out in the countryside, however sunny it was that day.

For this job, you will need a drip tray. The timing case will have some blow-by from the oil pump in it and you don't want it on the floor - you will slip in it when you are pushing the bike about, and then you'll drop the bike or yourself, or both, which will spoil your day.


Last thing is to put the bike in a high gear, so you can move the engine carefully from the rear wheel.

By the way, it is important that you do these steps in the proper sequence. Anything else is going to compromise the ignition timing and hence the quality of your spark.

Remove the spark plug

Use your tool roll plug spanner and tommy bar to remove the plug.



Have a look at the plug and deliberate over the state of your mixture, piston rings, and ignition timing. This one is verging on OK in my book - no oil, it's not burnt, but it is a little dark suggesting my mixture is a bit rich. I'll not worry too much about that since I have changed the carb and we are checking the ignition timing today.

Check the cable tension

The ignition timing is controlled by the advance lever on the left hand handlebar - at least it is on Ariel singles. Ariels use a 'tight wire advance' in that the lever is pushed away from you, pulling the advance cable to advance the ignition.

To start work checking the timing, we need to make sure this cable has a little slack in it. Look at the ferrule at the handlebar lever end and make sure it is seated properly in the lever:


The other end of the cable disappears into the magneto under this little rubber boot:


There is a cable adjuster under the boot. Have a close look at the cable ferrule again and make sure the cable is a little slack - if it's not, move the adjuster until it is:


Setting the points gap

The next step is vital - work on the ignition timing with the points gap set up wrongly is a waste of time - the timing settings will be way out. The thing is, when the points are closed, the position of the points heel or pushrod relative to the cam is dictated by the position of the fixed point: if the gap is set too wide (i.e. the fixed point is further away from the moving point) the points heel will contact the cam later than if the points were set too tight - which alters the ignition timing.

Start by removing the points cover from the end of the magneto - swing the spring clip aside, or unscrew the cover.


This reveals the points and the cam. You can see the shiny surface of the cam in these two pictures:


This is where it is useful to have the bike in gear - you cam move the rear wheel to move the points. It's quite difficult to access the points from under the dynamo. This 1942 bike has the short 40W E3HM dynamo - access is even worse with the long 60W E3L. You may wish to take the dynamo off while you adjust the points.


Use your toolkit magneto spanner with it's built in 0.012" feeler gauge to test the gap - look for a light dragging fit.


Use the spanner to release the lock nut under the fixed point and adjust the fixed point. Feel free to move the point - on this magneto, it is much easier to access the points with them at the 9 o'clock position, though the points are close at this position. You must move them back onto the cam (12 o'clock position in this case) to test the gap.


Don't forget to do up the locknut when you are finished - but note that moving the locknut usually moved the fixed point a bit. Test it all again when it's done up tight.

Checking the timing

This is what we came for.

The first step, if you don't have one, is to make a graduated stick. Mine is a Wagamama bamboo chopstick; it's a good idea to drill one end for a loop of wire or string - something to stop the stick disappearing down the plug hole.

Stick it vertically in the plug hole, and move the piston with the back wheel until the piston pushes the stick upward while you hold it vertically in the plug hole. When it is as high as it goes, make a mark on the stick aligned with some convenient geographical feature - a church tower, TV mast or even the top of an adjacent cylinder head fin.


This is 'top dead centre' or TDC, the highest point in the piston's travel. Use a ruler to measure some graduations above your mark - mark 1" in 1/4" increments, with something indelible like a Sharpie marker.

An aside that you might want to consider. There are obviously more accurate methods of measure the piston position and detecting points opening than the method I describe here. This method is simple, but not particularly accurate - it's 1920's technology not 2020 technology, but it will get you going and get you home.

Personally, I get a lot of pleasure from this low-tech approach; I also ride my bikes on roads that existed when they were built and remember, with a manual advance magneto, the lever can be moved at will - there is little point in setting your piston position to the nearest half-millimeter when the lever setting is so inaccurate.

Next, wind the piston backwards and put your thumb over the plug hole. Turn the wheel forwards until you feel the air pressure trying to blow your thumb off - this is the compression stroke, where both valves are closed. Turn the wheel back a little way to bring the piston backwards down the stroke. Watch the points move around the cam, noting roughly where the points are when they open.

The Ariel I am working on uses a magneto which turns clockwise when viewed from the points, and the engine fires at something like 11 o'clock. In this case, I position the points at 9 o'clock, because I can get to them easily and place a blue Rizla cigarette paper between the points. Holding the cigarette paper, turn the engine unto the points release the paper.


Now, if I do this with the ignition lever set to full retard, the paper is released (and the engine would fire) at TDC. If I set it to full advance, the paper would be released with the engine about 5/8" advance, which we can see from the position of the stick:


The various notes Ariel issued for the bike recommend setting the ignition fully advanced at 3/8" - 1/2" BTDC, or 'Before Top Dead Centre'. Since my lever allows the ignition to be set between 5/8" and TDC, this is OK.

Remove the timing chain cover

You did remember to put a drip tray under the bike didn't you? The timing cover encloses the magneto chain and this is lubricated by leakage from the oil pump. consequently, there is always some oil within the cover and you will want to catch it as you remove the cover screws.



Check the chain tension

The timing chain needs to be maintained at a reasonable tension as it wears, or it will be carving your timing chest to pieces. If you look closely at this picture, you can see two grooves in that threaded post where the chain has touched it in the past.

The tension is not too critical, but there are a couple of points to bear in mind. Too loose, and it will be noisy and wear the case; too tight, and your magneto bearings and possibly the armature will suffer. Worse is a misaligned chain - it's quite easy to get the two sprockets out of parallel which is going to wear the chain very quickly.


The workshop manual for the W/NG says 3/8" total movement, which feels about right.

The chain tension is adjusted by moving the magneto backwards and forwards on its mounting platform. An Ariel magneto is retained by these three inaccessible bolts, which pass up through the mounting platform into the magneto. Slacken them by whatever contortionist spannering you are capable of, and pull the magneto backwards until the tension is where you want it. Before you tighten the bolts, make sure the magneto is pushed into the back of the timing case - there is a foam seal there which prevents the oil, splashing around the timing case, from coming out.


Set the timing

If your ignition timing was not to your satisfaction, you will need to loosen the magneto chain sprocket to reset the timing. Back off the nut a few turns, leaning on the rear brake lever as you do so:


Fit your puller to the large thread on the sprocket. You will have to wind the screw fully out to get it on, but once it's fully home you can wind in the screw and the sprocket will come off it's taper.


An alternative approach which you may find easier is to remove the sprocket on the camshaft rather than the sprocket on the magneto - the effect is the same, but the camshaft will not move while you put the sprocket back on, whilst the magneto might.

Set the advance lever to full advance and using your graduated stick, move the engine into the full advance position - 1/2" BTDC on my W/NG. As before, make sure it is on the compression stroke or you will have a mysterious failure to start.

Next, put your fag paper back in the points.


Turn the points by hand in the proper direction. They should move easily - you are turning the magneto armature which is no longer connected to the chain drive from the engine. Turn them until the paper is just released and no more.

Next, go back to the other side of the bike and push the magneto sprocket back onto the taper, and do up the nut. Go back to the 'Checking the Timing' section to make sure you have it set correctly; you don't need to be too fussy as the handlebar lever allows you to adjust the timing to wherever you want it.

Next, reassemble the timing cover; put the plug back in and replace the dynamo if you removed it, ad go for a test ride.

Wednesday, 7 August 2019

More Egg

I was parked outside my barber's earlier. He asked me where I was going, and I was heading off for an hours ride or so. He asked whether it would get all that way without breaking down. I told him that in my experience most roadside breakdowns were instigated by the rider messing something up or not paying attention when in the workshop.

Forty minutes later, I spluttered to a halt thinking the carb was flooding. This is what I found: 


I've wiped a lot of egg off my face since I've had old bikes!

Friday, 2 August 2019

Cleaning Turn 4 - Y14 again - and Worsted Trimming

Another Thursday, another railway day.

This one does not get off to an auspicious start as I drive down the Weybourne Road and realise I have forgotten my hat. Since a hat is part of the required PPE for footplate crew I turn about and go and get it, surprising Mrs H and the dog who have both gone back to sleep.

Weybourne works is only a few minutes down the road, and I arrive with 15 minutes to spare prior to sign on time, in the pouring rain...

Its a Red Day, which means the whole timetable is serviced with steam hauled trains and most of the two crews are already there. I am rostered Cleaner 2, and the second loco is the Y14. Loco 1 is the BR Standard 4MT, and my friend Peter is Cleaner 1. Third Man 2 is Phil, who I've not seen for a while, Fireman Tony, and Driver Steve who I've not met before. Keith is also assigned Loco 2 for footplate experience - so there will be four people out on that tiny footplate all day.

Third Man Phil and I shelter in the Y14s open cab until the worst of the rain is over - I am lighting up and Phil will do the smokebox but first, Phil offers to clean the fire. Phil's way of doing this is unlike mine from last time (which involved raking the old fire out) and he climbs into the fire box, lifts a couple of firebars from the grate and pushes the remains of yesterdays fire into the ashpan. It must be quite warm in there, as there is still 10 psi on the clock from yesterday.

Man in the firebox
Third Man Phil in a dark and dusty place
Lighting up goes according to plan and we are joined by three new faces - Tim and Peter, who are here for SID and Cleaner Wendy, who is married to Tim. Wendy is to shadow me today since it is her first turn, and we set about cleaning the Y14.

Before we get in to that, Fireman Tony asks that we sort out the lamps and discs from the store. I've not done this before, so he leads the way. We retrieve two discs and a lamp, checking the lamp's condition and making sure the reservoir is full of kerosene. The discs are used in daylight in place of lamps to show the signalman what type of train is approaching him:

Locomotive Lamp Codes

I clean the discs and place the red side on the loco's bottom centre lamp iron and the white on the rear of the tender - the first trip is Light Engine to Sheringham, and she will be travelling tender first.

Red disc on the lamp iron

The rain holds off, and we spend the next hour or so cleaning yesterdays muck off the blue GER paint. The Y14 has a high dome, and I scramble up onto the boiler to clean it - from a position sitting astride the boiler. I am now painfully aware of the limit of travel of my hips.

Locomotive boiler, cab & dome

Still, she looks good. We clean the brass and new man Peter takes a wheel brush and some paraffin to the areas beneath the running boards.

We are almost ready to go now, and someone makes a round of tea. Since we are Loco 2, the Standard 4MT is already on the pit road and is coaling so we won't be going anywhere for a bit. I fill up some empty spray bottles with cleaning fluid solution I mix up from the shed to catch up on the housekeeping jobs.

Need to lose that yellow hose before we back up!
A bit later, and the 4MT has moved into the platform ready for the first trip to Sheringham. I need to hurry, since I will be going with them to see someone about a Rule Book but first, we need to finish getting the Y14 ready.

Next job is to ash out. Driver Steve goes under the loco first to complete his inspection & oiling up:

Y14's expansion links - many oiling points here
This is Stephenson's Valve Gear, similar to that fitted to the B12 which we will be intimately involved with later in the day. Those two creamy coloured rods are the ones coming from the cams on the left, to the expansion link in the middle of the picture:

When Steve's happy, it's my turn to go underneath with a rake and the ash pit hose. Third Man Phil opens the damper revealing the ash from yesterday and the new, hot ash from this morning:


The pit hose has a long metal lance and this gets plunged into the ash to wet it. There are several reasons for this - I don't want hot ash on my feet; we don't want fine dust in our lungs, and we don't want grit all over the valve and brake gear.

When it's thoroughly wet, I pull it all out through the damper and onto the floor of the ash pit.


Like all inside-frame fireboxes, it's quite long and I could do with a bigger rake - it's a trade off. I can get more out with a bigger rake but the bigger rake is much heavier, so I will persist with the smaller on for as long as possible. Just as I am considering getting a larger one, Phil appears with the lance and washes out the last of the ash. I refit the screen and we close the damper.

Next, the Y14 backs up for coaling and it's time to tidy up the ash pit.

I have a diversion from normal cleaning duties this morning - I have to go back to Sheringham to discuss the results of my Basic Rules Test with the Responsible Officer - and to pick up my copy of the Operating Manual. But how to get back to Sheringham? My car is blocked in and the Sheringham Station car park will be choc a bloc by now. An opportunity presents itself at Platform 1 in the shape of the first loco off-shed, the 4MT. I politely ask the driver and the duty fitter if a lift to Sheringham would be permissible, and am delighted with the response! Here's my ride for the trip:


Armed with the crew breakfast list, we set off on time from Sheringham at 09:15, collecting the tablet from the Weybourne signalman. I keep well out of the way on the Fireman's side, perched near the handbrake wheel and with a great view of the coast and golf course as we travel the few miles to Sheringham. 


Coming back, Fireman Paul explains the gradients from Sheringham up to Weybourne and Holt - and where to fire. They are shown in the Operating Manual:


As someone with little experience, and most of that with locos in the yard, it's surprising to see how different the fire behaves when the loco is under load - it is much hotter, and so bright that you can no longer see the fire bed.


On the return trip, Fireman Paul demonstrates the effect of the fire door position on the colour of the exhaust smoke. He's aiming for light grey - the smoke is much darker when the secondary air is restricted by closing the firehole door.


Back in the yard, it's time for some tea and a look around. The boiler is back on the N2, which is apparently heading off somewhere else for rebuild.


The backhead welding is nearing completion on the 9F:


Here's the 9F's smokebox, just because I happened to go into the shop that way:


Earlier, I learned from Fitter Bob that I was required to help out NNR legend Sir Nigel with some trims on the B12. Trims are used to assist and control the flow of oil into the many bearings in the motion of the engine, around the valve gear, piston and valve crossheads & guides. Unusually, the B12 was next to an empty road in the shop:


Here's a typical example of a rocking bearing - this is the lower bearing on one the expansion links (on the driver's side), the part of the Stephenson's valve gear responsible for controlling valve movement relative to piston movement:


You are looking at the brass plug that is used to access the trims, with the cork above it that is used to fill the bearing oil reservoir. It's the bearing indicated by the red circle:


Here's another example, the sliding bearing at the top of one of the piston crossheads; this one is on the fireman's side of the loco:


Some explanation is necessary here. In this next picture, I have removed the cap of the oil box and have also removed the cork. The two tubes you can see normally contain two trimmings; you can also see the box is half full of bearing oil. The trim's job is to lift the oil, by capillary action from the oil reservoir and to let it fall at a controlled rate into the tube, which conducts it into the bearing.


Here are the old trims, which are falling to pieces and are of the wrong type for the job:


And here is a new one. They are made from copper wire and worsted, by Sir Nigel in his home workshop. Nigel was a BR Fireman in his past and he's tested various designs with different numbers of threads to determine what flow rate each option provides:


The trim in my hand is a PT type, as shown in the diagram below. The idea is that the plug part, wrapped around the copper wire fits snugly enough into the tube to restrict the oil flow to the required amount; the tails are there to lift the oil from the bottom of the reservoir to the top of the tube. the number of tails affects the quantity of oil falling into the tube; the size of the plug affects how quickly it gets through the tube. the crosshead bearing we are working on needs two of these.

It's the drivers job to make sure all the oil boxes on the loco are full - he will attend to these, which are accessible from under the boiler but above the running boards during steam raising; those under the running boards and inside the frames will be filled when the engine is over the pit, before ashing out prior to departure.

Different trims for various locomotive applications
So that was my 4th cleaning turn, and a particularly enjoyable one.

In two weeks time I will do the 5th, along with the Cleaner's Basic Training Course. I'm really looking forward to that one too - I wonder if I can squeeze another turn in next week?

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