Lathe - tool storage

 In a bid to clear up the lathe area a bit, I bought a magnetic knife rack from Amazon. The magnets seem a bit weak but I suppose you don’t want to be struggling to pull a 9” carving knife off the rack and risk it flying across the kitchen.

As you see, it keeps the tool holders neat, tidy and accessible:

A few months later, this kitchen knife rack got replaced with a bespoke tool rack that has much stronger magnets:

I will now stop worrying about my lathe tools falling down the back of the cabinet.

Lathe - cheap collet chuck

 I use my ER25 collet chuck quite regularly, generally because it's more accurate than the three jaw chuck. It's a morse taper fit in the lathe spindle and consequently has a very short capacity - you can't fit more than about 50 mm into the collet holder before the work bottoms out.

Therefore, I thought I'd buy a flange mounted collet holder which would allow me to pass the workpiece right into the lathe spindle. You can buy a lot of stuff online, usually made in China, for little money these days and to be honest that's what's enabled me to develop my machining skills without breaking the bank. However sometimes these things are not quite the quality you would want. 

Here's a little video. Look at the dial test indicator needle waving around all over the place:

The whole collet retaining assembly has a 0.4 - 0.5 mm runout compared to the spindle locating feature on the back. 

To fix this little problem I initially removed the collet nut. The first step was to rebore the 16° cone that receives the collet; that helped a little bit but didn't give me the accuracy that I was looking for. 

The cone in the faceplate is mirrored by another cone in the nut. The collet itself is suspended effectively between these two cones centralising the collet to the lathe, so the concentricity of the nut becomes critical - and was eccentric by something like 0.5 mm. I'd have to recut the thread and hope it would retain enough strength.

I used the Little Machine Shop gear calculator to set up the lathe gear train and set about cutting the thread. The first attempt didn't make enough difference - I still had something like 0.25 mm run-out.

I changed tools and turned the outside diameter such that it was concentric, taking the minimum amount off, and recut the thread again.

By the time I'd finished I had taken 0.5 mm out of the thread diameter, biased to one side as I expected. Another test showed it could be improved a bit more, and I removed another 0.05 mm to get this:

No runout at all. Better than I dared hope for!

FH - indicators

 I've decided, mainly at the behest of my son that the Huntmaster is going to have indicators. I've bought some small circular indicators from eBay which will look the part but I'll need to make some stems to put them in the right place and to fit them to the bike. I made this drawing to show what I wanted to machine and I'll do that on the mini-lathe.

We'll start by cutting four blanks from 0.515" hex bar stock. This is EN1A.

With the first end faced and centred it's time to put some marking blue on the far end in order to turn all the blanks to length. We'll start drilling the 3 millimetre hole for the cable at this point as well. I've got some long series drills just for the purpose.

The next step is to face the ends to length, centre drill and drill 3 mm through the length of the blank. Then we'll turn the M8 thread for the indicator lamp and start reducing the hex to the final diameter for the stem. We'll do this in two halves because we'll want to switch ends in order to turn the 5/16 CEI thread that holds the stem to the bike.

With the outer end of the stem finished on all four examples it's time to look at the inner end. This has a 5/16 CEI thread to bolt into the original fastenings on the Huntmaster. In most cases there is sufficient hexagon left available for us to be able to hold the stems in three jaw chuck. 

First we need to use the height gauge to mark off the length of the 5/16 thread and the height of the nut that we will need to fit the stems to the bike. I painted all the stems with Dykem to facilitate the marking out.

I've got the 5/16 thread now on all the stems, and I've drilled through 3 mm for the wire to pass through from the indicator lamp. 

For the next step I wanted to hold the stems in the collet chuck to avoid damaging the fine 5/16 CEI thread. The next step is to finish the main stem length turn it to size and then to turn a feature in the end to give the stem a little more shape.

There are three examples of the finished article you'll notice the feature that I was talking about and you're probably also noticed that the hex element is not the same length in all of those examples -  we'll have to refine that later.

Here's one of the short stems fitted to the lamp and fitted the front of the bike - it's looking pretty good I think. 

Now, there's a bit of refining to do on the height of those hexagon sections but then we'll assemble these to the lamps, degrease them and paint them.

I'll use a little bit of wood as a jig while I paint them:

Not too shabby.

Charlie's Shed - clutch holding tool

 One of the problems that you can have when you're working on a bike is trying to undo nuts from components that spin around such as the clutch or the engine sprocket. 

Today I'm going to show you how I make a tool out of two clutch plates to hold the clutch in place while we undo the centre nut or conversely do it up again. 

Regular readers will know that I've built several clutches over the last few years and have a number of old clutch plates knocking about. To start with I've taken a friction plate and removed all the old worn cork inserts. Then I've added a plain plate and placed the two over the top of each other in the way they would appear in the clutch using the TIG welder to fasten them together.

Once you've got your two clutch plates together you'll need a handle - there's no point having the clutch basket and centre fixed together if it's still going to spin. In my case the handle is made from a piece of old door threshold - effectively a rough piece of 20 mm by 5 mm flat bar. I've used the TIG to place a fillet weld around the base of the flat bar and attach it to the clutch plate assembly.

I used the TIG torch to heat the handle and form a local bend as an experiment. The problem I have with forming hot bends by my usual approach - a MAPP torch - is that the heated area is so big, the bend is anything but sharp; OK if you want it like that, but this one needs to be in just the right place.

It's worked rather well I think. Here you can see it in action, helping put the FH clutch together.

SQ4 - bushing the saddle nose

Updated: First published June 2021

Since I've had it on the road, the Square Four has felt a bit wayward around the rear end. Since I had rebuilt the rear suspension and knew that it had no wear, I suspected the tyre and wheel though they were both new and rebuilt - until I realised the problem was closer to home. Literally much closer, to my backside.

The saddle nose bracket on an Ariel frame is quite small, giving little bearing area. Coupled with a bolt with an over-long thread, used as a bearing surface produces this effect after a few years:

This picture shows the saddle removed, but with the bolt in position. The red circle shows a portion of the thread used as a bearing - a very poor idea:

So, the first job is to make those worn holes round again. The bolt is 5/16" (0.312", or around 8mm), and they are both worn to over 0.350". I used an adjustable reamer on them to remove the ovality.

Ovality in the frame holes is not the only problem - the holes in the saddle frame are also very large. I have another problem in this area in that the fuel tank has very little clearance around the saddle nose bolt and I have solved both these problems in one go. In this picture, the original bolt has had it's head thickness reduced to produce a shoulder which fits in the saddle frame hole with very little clearance, and the full nut used at the other end has been reduced to the thickness of a half nut, again with a shoulder. This enabled the bolt length to be reduced, to get more clearance for the tank, and removed the whole assembly to the right to move the thread out of the bearing area.

Next job was to make two shouldered bushes to fit in the holes:

The bushes pass right through the fixed frame lugs, to provide maximum bearing area; there is a minimal shoulder to allow the bush to be retained in place (or removed).

This repair has removed virtually all the play from the saddle nose bearing.

Three years after I wrote this, I sorted out another problem - that of the bushes coming out of the frame lug and all play returning. I made a spacer on the lathe:

It's just a bit of 1/2" round bar with a clearance hole for the bolt; it's relieved slightly in the middle as the pivot bolt is very close to the frame lug.

Posterior stability has been restored.

SQ4 - idling and a idle mind

 Some while back I had taken part in a forum discussion about a Square Four with a poor hot idle, in which one of the gurus had drawn attention to the absence of a critical notch in the only gasket specified for the Solex. Yesterday, I was out on a little tootle around Holt and Cley, and boy was it hot. Of course, coming through town on the way home you remember that it doesn't idle very well when it's hot.

A few minutes searching the AOMCC forum archive revealed the post I'd contributed to in 2018, where the notch-less gasket problem had been explained. I pulled the Solex apart this morning and lo & behold, no notch:

Furthermore, you can see how the gasket has been squashed into the slot, obstructing it further. It was a simple matter to cut the notch:

Starting the bike up, it seems to start easily and idles happily - but that might have as much to do with resetting the point gap from 5 thou back to the regulation 15!

Charlie's Shed - Maintenance Logs

This post records my bike maintenance activities.

This is a link to a shared Excel spreadsheet listing the maintenance tasks, the frequency with which they should be performed and the mileage at which I last performed them:

•  Square Four Maintenance Log

This post has been upgraded to a page. It's here.

Project: My first pocket knife

Pocket knives, and knives in general, fascinate a lot of people for many different reasons; perhaps you foster some sort of rufty tufty backwoodsman fetish with a need to whittle a toothbrush from a redwood, or you are an artist looking for something to sharpen his pencil, or a motorcyclist who wants a all-purpose multi-tool to carry in his pocket, there is a pocket knife to meet all your whims.

I’ve carried a small folding knife (called a slip joint knife) for years; it originally had a hooked blade which was a nuisance to sharpen and I’ve since ground the blade straight such that I can sharpen it on a flat diamond stone. I was aware that the blade was marked ‘stainless steel’ which experience suggests doesn’t align with keeping a sharp edge for very long!

Tootling around YouTube like you do, I found lots of videos to learn from. I discovered all the terminology used in this post, and I learned that here in the UK your ‘Every Day Carry’ pocket knife can have a maximum blade length of 3” and it mustn’t be able to lock the blade in it’s extended position.

Knives like that, with a spring to return the blade and to keep it folded are called ‘slip joint’ knives; there are lots of styles of pocket knives with locking blades as well.

I bought a strip of 1095 tool steel on eBay - 50 mm x 200 mm, enough to make a few pocket knives. This is the most popular 10-series standard carbon steel (about 1% carbon) with low corrosion resistance and average edge retention properties. It’s a tough steel that’s resistant to chipping, it’s easy to sharpen, takes a crazy sharp edge and is inexpensive to produce but it will corrode if you get it wet - a simple oil treatment will do the trick.

The first thing I did was to make a cardboard pattern of the blade, the back spring and the liners to model the shape of the knife and make sure the spring would work. Satisfied with that, I used the template to mark out the blade on my 1095 strip. Having shaped the blade, I used a compass to follow the edge of the blade and mark where the bevel meets the flat part of the blade - the point called the ‘shoulder’. I used a power file to put the bevel in.

The next picture shows the back spring and the blade cut out - the back spring is not yet complete. You’ll notice the holes for the pins are punched but not drilled, and the spring has not been shaped internally. The blade however is more or less complete - it’s partially polished, the tang has been shaped and the choil or kick, that little notch at the end of the bevel, has been filed in.

The other two parts shown are the liners, which have been roughed out.

Here it gets a bit more exciting - I’ve drilled the spring and liners for the pins (not including the blade joint pin) and set the spring and blade on a piece of chipboard. Next, I've located the blade tang and pin approximately and adjusted the position to give me some deflection in the spring, and drilled the pin hole in the liner. Neither the spring nor the blade have been hardened at this point, and there is some material to come off both if the spring is too stiff - the pin location is set to ensure the spring is not too weak, because we can't correct for that later; which brings us to the lesson. In the event, the finished spring is a bit weak - perhaps through over-tempering, perhaps it’s the wrong shape. The lesson is to leave it deliberately too big until after heat treatment, since you can always grind a bit off.

You can see that I had ground the nail nick by now, using a Dremel cutting wheel in the pillar drill and the blade held vertically in the vice. It produced a thin slot which I enlarged with another grinding wheel; this is easy to mess up.

Drilling the second liner through the first, you can assemble the working parts of the knife and test both the spring and the enclosure of the blade by the liners.

Here's a similar view, but with the back spring shaping finished. At this stage I had liners made from brass, which looks great but they were too thin; I replaced them with 1.2 mm thick stainless steel.

The blade and spring were hardened in my home-made keg furnace, heating to red-hot and quenching in oil. Both parts were then tempered to 200°C in the kitchen oven.

Now, normally you make the bolsters next - that's the stainless steel 'block' you see at the blade joint. You make them next and rivet them to the liners such that when you make the scales - the wooden grips - you can butt them up tightly to the bolsters. I'm writing this a year or so after making this knife and I don't have any pictures of the bolsters during manufacture, but from the next picture it's clear that if I had made them, I obviously hadn't fitted them...

So, the next pictures shows the two oak scales (I replaced these with ebony later) cut to thickness and shaped around the earlier brass liners:

Here's another view showing the knife closed and the point of the blade safely hidden inside:

This next picture shows the final ebony scales and the stainless bolsters. They are made from 25 x 5mm 304 stainless flat bar, and in this shot are fixed in place with rivets made from 2.5 mm diameter 304 round bar. The rivets, being the same material as the bolsters, are invisible after polishing - there are actually three rivets holding the bolster in place.

You'll see the scales are riveted in place as well, in two positions for the moment - they will be further retained when the knife is assembled, making six rivet positions in all. Possibly overkill!

Assembling the knife, with the blade pin going in and temporary pins still in place around the butt end of the spring:

The other side:

Finished:

 It's a nice chunky knife that I have on me all the time. The blade blunts easily but as expected is easily sharpened; it will rust but rarely gets the chance!

QD Wheel Nut Spanner

 As regular readers will know, I enjoy making things and in particular the more elusive tools for the various Ariel on-board tool kits. Some while back, I made an early version of the special tool kit spanner for removing the nuts on the QD hubs, which is an extended box spanner to reach in between the spokes. I wrote up the job here. At the time, I didn’t realise that the later bikes (after 1950) had a different spanner. AOMCC member Klaus Gerhard sent me this picture, from his 1951 NH:

Scaling off the picture gave me this drawing:

Starting with a bit of 3/4” EN1 round bar, I set the bar up in the lathe with a revolving centre to support the end of the bar and set about reducing the centre section to 3/8” diameter:

I had a 3/8” diameter round nose tool which I made last time to form this radius:

The hexagonal bit is a section cut from a cheap Melco box spanner. The holes you see are for the tommy bar - I’ll weld those up later:

In the picture above, you can see that one of the ends of the main part has been reduced in diameter very slightly to fit inside the box spanner part. The other end needs a radius and a hole:

I made the radius by turning two or three chamfers at different angles and smoothing them off with a file in the lathe. 

Best test it:

The cross drilling is 8.5 mm, to clear the 5/16” tommy bar; I drilled it in the bench drill paying very careful attention to centring the drill over the bar, and drilling in three steps (4mm, 6.5 mm, 8.5 mm). 

Apologies for the awful picture. There’s a peripheral weld around the circumference of the box spanner and two plug welds filling in the tommy-bar holes. Those with keen eyes for a pinhole will note that I used the last of the Argon on this weld!

At some point, hopefully this year, I shall set up a plating plant and deal with a long list of small FH bits that need cad (or as near as is available today) plating. This QD hub spanner will be plated - but for now, it's happy with some gloss black U-Pol.

One last thing. You might recall that the 1950 version of this spanner has an extension, 6611-50:

My interpretation on how it's used is this. With the extension on the spanner and the tommy bar pinning the two together, you use the extension to steady the spanner with your right hand while turning the tommy bar with your left - you can actually get a lot more torque on the nut like that:

Thanks for reading, and I hope you found it useful!