Friday, 6 April 2018

QD Wheel Nut Spanners

QD rear hubs need a special spanner to reach the hub nuts through the spokes:


This is the 1938 version, as shown in the 1938 singles parts list. Drawing number G1/126, PN 6608-38


I'm not sure what that hole on the LH end is doing - there are no dimensions?


Note that the LH end hole does not appear in the assembly drawing:



Access to the gearbox bolts are a problem with the oil feed pipes on the SQ4, and I have found that something like the QD wheel nut spanner is useful to get at the top nut, and to drive a small socket in the top nut


Looking in the 1939 SQ4 parts list, it seems Ariel had a similar idea. 6608-38 now has something like a roll pin in one end, and drives an extension (6611-38), with a slot to receive the roll pin in the other:

1939 SQ4 Parts List

1939 SQ4 Parts List
Now, my mission is to be able to replicate the QD wheel nut spanner and the gearbox top nut extension for my own SQ4, which is 1951. Here's the parts list:


And here's the problem - the part numbers are different. I thought this may be extra length associated with Anstey springing, but that would not explain why the gearbox top nut extension was changed; fortunately, and this is yet another 'AOMCC to the rescue' story, I have been sent this picture of a 1950 Pattern Spanner sent to me by Klaus Gerhard in Germany. It's a tool that came with his 1951 NH:


Guessing again, I thought that the gearbox nut extension 6649-50 was just a hex tube to fit over the front of the spanner. Wrong again! Find out what it is here, with the write up on how I made the 1950 version.

Reproduction 1938 Pattern Spanner

So, I have purchased some 0.600" EN1A hex bar with which to reproduce the QD wheel nut spanners and since I have no drawings of the later spanner my 1951 SQ4 needs, we will start with the older one. Another job for the brilliant new mini-lathe!

Starting with the handle component, part no. G1/126A we chuck the steel bar, face off, centre and chamfer the end:


Changing the chuck for the revolving centre, we can start turning the reduced centre section


Turning the radii with a specially-ground form tool:


Finish turned and ready for parting off:


After parting off, I faced and chamfered the cut end.

For the extension, I will use a section of my most-damaged 5/16" BSW box spanner. This is the Moore & Wright type made from hex tube - very useful for this job. Here I am parting off a 1 1/2" section for part G1/126B.


The two components, ready for drilling the tommy-bar hole and welding up.



Best try it out before we spend any more time on it! A small test reveals there is plenty of length, even for my Anstey frame SQ4:


Drill and de-burr the hole for the tommy-bar:


And welded up:


Welding is looking OK - 2.6 mm electrode, 60 A:


Let's try it out:


U-Pol etch primer, U-Pol Matt  Black and a little oil for mock Parkerizing...


Good job.

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