QD rear hubs need a special spanner to reach the hub nuts through the spokes:
This is the 1938 version, as shown in the 1938 singles parts list. Drawing number G1/126, PN 6608-38
I'm not sure what that hole on the LH end is doing - there are no dimensions?
Note that the LH end hole does not appear in the assembly drawing:
Access to the gearbox bolts are a problem with the oil feed pipes on the SQ4, and I have found that something like the QD wheel nut spanner is useful to get at the top nut, and to drive a small socket in the top nut
Looking in the 1939 SQ4 parts list, it seems Ariel had a similar idea. 6608-38 now has something like a roll pin in one end, and drives an extension (6611-38), with a slot to receive the roll pin in the other:
Now, my mission is to be able to replicate the QD wheel nut spanner and the gearbox top nut extension for my own SQ4, which is 1951. Here's the parts list:
And here's the problem - the part numbers are different. I thought this may be extra length associated with Anstey springing, but that would not explain why the gearbox top nut extension was changed; fortunately, and this is yet another 'AOMCC to the rescue' story, I have been sent this picture of a 1950 Pattern Spanner sent to me by Klaus Gerhard in Germany. It's a tool that came with his 1951 NH:
Guessing again, I thought that the gearbox nut extension 6649-50 was just a hex tube to fit over the front of the spanner. Wrong again! Find out what it is here, with the write up on how I made the 1950 version.
Starting with the handle component, part no. G1/126A we chuck the steel bar, face off, centre and chamfer the end:
Changing the chuck for the revolving centre, we can start turning the reduced centre section
Turning the radii with a specially-ground form tool:
Finish turned and ready for parting off:
After parting off, I faced and chamfered the cut end.
For the extension, I will use a section of my most-damaged 5/16" BSW box spanner. This is the Moore & Wright type made from hex tube - very useful for this job. Here I am parting off a 1 1/2" section for part G1/126B.
The two components, ready for drilling the tommy-bar hole and welding up.
Best try it out before we spend any more time on it! A small test reveals there is plenty of length, even for my Anstey frame SQ4:
Drill and de-burr the hole for the tommy-bar:
And welded up:
Welding is looking OK - 2.6 mm electrode, 60 A:
Let's try it out:
U-Pol etch primer, U-Pol Matt Black and a little oil for mock Parkerizing...
Good job.
This is the 1938 version, as shown in the 1938 singles parts list. Drawing number G1/126, PN 6608-38
I'm not sure what that hole on the LH end is doing - there are no dimensions?
Note that the LH end hole does not appear in the assembly drawing:
Access to the gearbox bolts are a problem with the oil feed pipes on the SQ4, and I have found that something like the QD wheel nut spanner is useful to get at the top nut, and to drive a small socket in the top nut
Looking in the 1939 SQ4 parts list, it seems Ariel had a similar idea. 6608-38 now has something like a roll pin in one end, and drives an extension (6611-38), with a slot to receive the roll pin in the other:
1939 SQ4 Parts List |
1939 SQ4 Parts List |
And here's the problem - the part numbers are different. I thought this may be extra length associated with Anstey springing, but that would not explain why the gearbox top nut extension was changed; fortunately, and this is yet another 'AOMCC to the rescue' story, I have been sent this picture of a 1950 Pattern Spanner sent to me by Klaus Gerhard in Germany. It's a tool that came with his 1951 NH:
Guessing again, I thought that the gearbox nut extension 6649-50 was just a hex tube to fit over the front of the spanner. Wrong again! Find out what it is here, with the write up on how I made the 1950 version.
Reproduction 1938 Pattern Spanner
So, I have purchased some 0.600" EN1A hex bar with which to reproduce the QD wheel nut spanners and since I have no drawings of the later spanner my 1951 SQ4 needs, we will start with the older one. Another job for the brilliant new mini-lathe!Starting with the handle component, part no. G1/126A we chuck the steel bar, face off, centre and chamfer the end:
Changing the chuck for the revolving centre, we can start turning the reduced centre section
Turning the radii with a specially-ground form tool:
Finish turned and ready for parting off:
After parting off, I faced and chamfered the cut end.
For the extension, I will use a section of my most-damaged 5/16" BSW box spanner. This is the Moore & Wright type made from hex tube - very useful for this job. Here I am parting off a 1 1/2" section for part G1/126B.
The two components, ready for drilling the tommy-bar hole and welding up.
Best try it out before we spend any more time on it! A small test reveals there is plenty of length, even for my Anstey frame SQ4:
Drill and de-burr the hole for the tommy-bar:
And welded up:
Welding is looking OK - 2.6 mm electrode, 60 A:
Let's try it out:
U-Pol etch primer, U-Pol Matt Black and a little oil for mock Parkerizing...
Good job.
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