The Huntmaster clicked over 400 miles on a run recently and is bedding down nicely. Checking it over in the workshop revealed a front chain that was rather loose, and of course one of the issues that you learn when dealing with these old bikes is that if the front chain is loose the rear chain will probably be tight as sometimes the gearbox will move.
It's time to have a look at both chains, and for this we will use the on board toolkit:
First stop is under the oil tank where we find the gearbox top bolt and the chain adjuster. Loosen the nut on the right a little bit and then use the chain adjuster to draw the gearbox backwards or push it forwards.
Next you need to gain access to the primary case so that you can inspect the tension on the primary chain and later top up the oil. If this is tight use a big flat spanner to undo the inspection cover:
Now you can see the chain. This should have about 3/8" up and down movement and this should be slack movement - the chain should not be stretched tight and you should not be putting much effort into moving it. If the chain is too tight you will be putting undue pressure on the engine main and gearbox bearings, not to mention the chain itself and the clutch basket bearing. Typically the chain will get looser as it wears and you will use the gearbox adjuster to draw the gearbox backwards by a little bit to tighten the chain. When you are done, leave the gearbox adjuster where it is and tighten up the gearbox top bolt.
Turn the engine over on the kickstart and test the chain in a couple of places to ensure it's not over tight anywhere.
Once the front chain is done, we can look at the rear chain. The Huntmaster has a fully enclosed rear chain case and the inspection point is behind a grommet which itself is behind the left hand side silencer. It's easiest to remove the silencer to gain access to the chain:
This is much easier on bikes with only a simple chainguard, but on this one we can enjoy the fact that the rear chain oiler is doing it's thing in keeping the chain clean and lubricated.
Once you can access the chain, slacken off both the wheel nuts and the lock nuts on the chain adjusters shown by the spanner in this next picture. When you tighten the rear chain you must make sure that both adjusters are turned by the same amount - count the flats - to make sure that the rear wheel alignment is maintained. Be really careful with this because setting up the rear wheel alignment is a bit of a pain. Do the lock nuts up when you're done and tighten up the wheel nuts again.
When checking the rear chain it's best to turn the wheel and sit on the bike, because a swinging arm bike will always tighten the chain when the swinging arm deflects upwards. Ariel recommend 5/8" chain movement with the swinging arm deflected to normal riding position and 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" with the bike on the stand. That's quite a difference and comes from the frame geometry - the swinging arm pivot is a long way from the mainshaft centre.
