FH - Steering Head

 Now that the frame is on the bench I can start to assemble some of it, bearing in mind that I must leave mating parts for the paint to fully cure.

I start by reducing the height of the lift so that I can easily get to the head races in the frame, to clear out the paint and primer with a knife, scraper and emery. This is pretty easy as the paint is relatively soft, not like powder coat.

Next step is to clean and fit the races, which go on easily with a copper mallet and a tubular drift. Then it's 1/4" ball bearings, 20 in each race according to the parts book, retained with grease. There usually appears to be a gap where you could fit one more ball, but you should always go by the parts book - the gap is there to allow the balls to move freely.

The top race is easier to assemble, since the inner retains the balls:

Ariels have a dust cover over the top race. You'll note that I haven't fitted the grease nipples to the frame - I will, but all they do is allow the frame tubes to fill up with grease. There is nothing apart from a missing felt washer to direct the grease to the bearing; the washer is shown in the front fork diagram in the parts book but doesn't appear in the parts list.

Next, you have the rather precarious activity of bringing the lower yoke up through the steering head  and through the top race, hopefully without disturbing the balls. Sticky grease helps, as does a dry fit of all the parts. Remember that the top inner race fits tightly around the steering column so you must remove the paint from the fine thread, making sure the adjustment nuts fit:

Next we will go to the other end and fit the swinging arm. It's not obvious, but this is a time when the bike lift is very useful - you can do all this work at the most comfortable working height.

A little trip to Cromer

An evening ride to Cromer revealed a front brake that was much better, but which now had too much lever movement. Nipping up the adjuster two clicks improved the lever movement and there didn't seem to be any brake binding, which was excellent. There was still a juddering from the front, particularly on braking. Getting it home, I found that wheeling the bike backwards revealed that particular groan that only binding brakes make, so I've backed the adjuster off one click.

Back in the workshop, a quick check revealed loosened head bearings - wheeling the bike forwards and putting the brake on reveals a 'jolt' from the headstock which you can hear. To check them more physically, put the bike on the main stand and put your thumb here in the dim & dark recesses of the top yoke, across the gap between the dust cover and the headstock:

The Engineer's Thumb

With your other hand, grasp the front wheel and rock the bike backwards. This has the effect of pushing the steering column up through the headstock against the weight of the bike, and your thumb will be able to feel any movement. Don't vigorously rock it backwards & forwards - you don't want it rolling off the stand.

Mr. Waller suggests lifting the weight off the front wheel to perform this job, bit since I have no bike lift or any desire to damage my back I use the method described above.

So, having found some movement we need to sort out the problem. First slacken off the lock nut under the top yoke with your head race spanner. Clay at Acme Stainless has these, but you can also pick original ones up on eBay. Be very careful not to damage the paint on the tank - make sure the spanner fits well (so that the spanner doesn't slip) and that the tank is protected (for when the spanner slips):

Now, grasping the wheel again, roll the bike backwards against the main stand whilst attempting to tighten the lower of the two nuts. You will find that the nut is now loose and can be tightened down - you will want to perform this feat of coordination two or three times.

When you are happy that the bearings are snug, and you can feel no more movement, tighten down the top nut. Move the handlebars and satisfy yourself that they are not binding anywhere. 

If you use your steering damper, reset it and you are good to go.

Building up

So, a few shots of half an hour's work, putting in the yokes:

Bottom bearing greased...

Steering damper parts all assembled. All from Drags bar the star washer and centre stem which are original

Top bearing greased

Bottom yoke in & bearings adjusted.