Tuesday, 28 November 2017

A little maintenance

The W/NG, since I'm shaking down and it is at the front of the garage, is my go-to bike at the minute. Since I made this list I've done a few jobs:
  1. Grease the forks & replace the missing nipple - done
  2. Maybe replace the fork bushes - not done
  3. Tighten the brake torque arm anchor or weld it in - done
  4. Make a T-bolt for the exhaust clamp - done
  5. Adjust and lubricate the primary chain - done
  6. Have a look at the clutch - not done
  7. Change the regulator to a V-Reg - done
  8. Fit a couple of transfers - done one...
I had a nice little trip out a couple of days ago to test the exhaust, which was great but the bike is not very fast and I'm not satisfied that I've got it running as well as it could.

I noticed that the carburetter slide was not reaching full travel for some reason, and that the plug was pretty dark. It's also had a bit of an oil leak from the inlet rocker shaft, which as you can see has heavy flat washers fitted over the banjos and the fibre washers. Not surprisingly, the oil leaks down the threads and comes out under the nut.

So what to do? What we always do in these situations - ask an expert, which always means someone in the AOMCC. In this case, a post to the forum yielded lots of useful information including this from Paul Jameson:

The correct assembly is as follows:
  1. Slacken off the screw on the opposite end of the rocker shaft from the banjo.
  2. Fit copper washer, then banjo then copper washer then acorn nut.
  3. Tighten acorn nut.
  4. Tighten screw on the opposite end of the rocker shaft from the banjo.
And this is why. Paul Jameson again:

The rocker shaft has a shoulder which goes against the inside of the rocker box so with the method above you tighten the nut, banjo and washers against the shoulder. The rocker shaft is sealed so that oil cannot emerge under pressure at the screw end. Hence the screw only seals against oil running along the outside of the rocker shaft.

So, undo this screw on the opposite side:

And you can see the end of the rocker shaft. Grip this with a very large screwdriver or a washer in the slot, and tighten down the acorn nut on the other end, against the fibre washers, then replace the large screw and snug it down into the milled recess to seal the rocker box.

Next, have a look up the inlet tract with the throttle fully open. Yes, I know I can see the carb slide:

Something odd here!

Let's have a look at the slide and spring. First off, the needle shouldn't be in that position, which is why my plug is sooty - it should be in the middle slot; secondly, that doesn't look like an Amal spring and fiddling around with it allows the slide to move up fully. Shame it doesn't return properly... It looks like it has its original brass slides though.

We'll have to get a new spring at least.

Turning to the back end, the chain has loosened off a lot. The primary chain is fine, and the chain is easily tightened up using Ariel's handy adjusters; odd spanner size though, the hex appears to be 3BA.

So that is that for today - we need a couple of seals for the rocker shafts, a new carburettor slide return spring and some front wheel bearings for the SQ4.

Thursday, 23 November 2017

Exhausted by all the noise

Blatting about North Norfolk I've become aware of quite how loud the W/NG is, partly due to its original silencer and partly due to the poor fit of the exhaust pipe, which is well and truly battered, to the cylinder head.

I've no intention of doing anything about the silencer, or the battered nature of the pipe since they are irreplaceable original parts, but I must fix the joint to the head as it is leaking fire and smoke with every other piston stroke. You might recall I made a new exhaust pipe clamp which has done well but it cannot deal with the fact that the pipe does not fit...

I looked at various ready made mild steel exhaust pipe bends available at a well known internet auction site, before I twigged that I had an old exhaust header in the loft, the perfect diameter:

And the perfect shape:

I cleaned it ferociously with emery tape:

I need about 45 mm of this tube to reach the head, using the full length of the cast stub. The exhaust has had a repair in the past which was not aligned correctly, leading to the leakage problem, but leaving 5 mm of this old repair piece in place means I do not have to weld to 75 year old steel.

I've put a ring of masking tape around the old & new tubes, to show where I have to cut and to keep the cut square.

Clean the inside:

I've marked the outside of the bend with a Sharpie to make sure the pieces are aligned as I go to tack up.:

Now tacked in about 6 places, we go to trial fit. Not too bad the first time, but ideally needs more angle - I needed to cut a wedge out, to bring it closer to the head at the top.

Now fully welded & a first coat of paint applied:

Clamp added:

Just got to finish painting it now.

Sunday, 19 November 2017

Sunny Autumn Day 2

Cley village this time, along the North Norfolk Coast & back by a round about route. The W/NG is the machine of choice at the moment, partly because it needs shaking down and partly because it is so good at these roads - but also because it is at the front of the garage.

Here she is at Cley Church:

Shes starting and running quite well at the minute, though I'm really not convinced the ignition timing is correct and the exhaust to head joint is leaking. This needs a proper repair, as the straight piece of pipe welded on by PO is at the wrong angle and hasn't a hope in hell of making a gas tight seal...

I have a suitable bit of pipe in the loft, from an old SQ4 Two-into-One. It got the right sort of curve:

More later. Hopefully this week, though I am loath to take it off the road