FH - followers, pistons and barrels

 With the little QR50 out of the way and the FH back on the bench, we can get on with the build. The barrel has been painted for a while, the bottom end is in the bike, there's no primary or timing side and no pistons. Off we go:

First step is to fit a circlip to each piston; the gudgeon pins come out with some mild warming and are refitted just as easily. As you can see, I've put a large rag under the pistons as I don't want a circlip in the crankcase at this stage, and the pins go back in and the circlips go on without any drama.

Next, we can refit the reground cam followers. I've ground the radius back into these such that they now have no wear grooves. The retaining screws and pins (with the missing ball) have been refitted:

Next, we fit the ring compressors - these are just strips of tin held in place with ty-wraps. These were cut for the SQ4 and are not really long enough for these larger pistons. You'll see the wood - these are to prevent the pistons rocking about when the barrel goes on.

Before the wood strips go in, we squirt oil all over both small ends. 

The wood strips are wide enough to completely stabilise the pistons while we put the barrel on, but first we use Threebond 1215 to apply the base gasket to the barrel, to keep it out the way. This wasn't ideal as I was forever wiping gasket goo off my gloves -  it would have been better to have the gasket, goo down, on the crankcase and apply the goo to the upper side after the barrel was over the rings.

After a lot of fiddling, swearing and anguish the barrel went down. The compression rings were not too bad but the three piece oil control rings, with their thin 'rails' were a pain to get in as they popped out of the compressors before they were caught by the barrel.

They went in eventually, and we can retain the barrels with four nuts.

FH - Assembling the bottom end

 With the crankshaft together and the few internal components of the crankcase assembled, it's time to put them together. First step is to thinly coat the mating faces with Threebond 1215:

With the cases bolted together, we can measure the end float again. This time we have 0.18 mm - last time we had 0.34 mm, and I added one 0.25 mm shim under the bearing. Something has changed, or I have made an error because 0.34 - 0.25 = 0.09, not 0.19...

That's 0.0075" - we are aiming at 0.005". I'll see what shims I have in stock.

The next challenge comes when we check crankshaft rotation - it doesn't. There are two clashes one on the rear of the case, one on the front; the rear is a scrape that allows the crankshaft to move, but the clash at the front is more serious and prevents movement altogether. You can see the witness marks in the picture - this is probably the big end nuts fouling the crankcase:

That's coming apart again.

W/NG - Dealing with leaks

 Long fast club runs tend to reveals failings in your bike, especially when 'given the beans' by other riders. You know who you are! The oil leaks that have plagued the W/NG really made themselves felt on the 87 mile run around Norfolk that the VMCC Blakeney Run entailed. It was clear that the oil was coming from the top end, but I wasn't sure if it was the decompressor, the rocker box gaskets or the cylinder head bolts.

Having spent some resealing the decompressor recently, I removed the rocker boxes to take a look revealing that the existing aluminium gaskets did not fit at all well:

 I resolved to make some new gaskets.

I made these from Flexitallic pink gasket sheet, which I think is rated to 350°C. I made the gasket a bit wider than the aluminium one, to make sure it covered the whole joint. I sealed it in place with Threebond 1215.

Preliminary testing suggests this has sorted most of the problem, but the decompressor is still weeping a bit. I'll have to add some more shims.

W/NG - fixing oil leaks

 Blatting about at the weekend used a bit of oil, some of it coming from the top end.

I suspect some is coming down the exhaust guide, but some is coming from the rocker shaft end covers. 

I've only recently learnt how to tighten these properly, and I'd damaged one of the fibre washers.

It's all done properly now, with a special screwdriver I made. I've added a small dose of Threebond to the fibre washers as well. 

W/NG - Assembling the bottom end - again...

So, a bit of spare time arrives and I have the camshaft, the cam bush, a 3/4" reamer and a gasket set. Let the bottom end rebuild commence!

First, it's back to the Rothenburger to remove and replace the bush, which I can do in one heat cycle. I'm careful to avoid the new bearing. I knock the new bush into the hot cases, driving the old bush out as I do it - a simple operation when you have enough heat.

Whilst that is cooling, let's look at the camshaft. The principle reason for replacing the camshaft is because the inner journal is badly worn. I reached out to the AOMCC Facebook community and came up with this camshaft, which is actually the profile used for the sidevalve machines. You can see it has a much longer duration than the Ariel F cam normally fitted (the one on the right), but it has the same base circle diameter. This means I will get more fuel in and and exhaust out again, and make more power but I won't have to change the followers or the pushrods.

Another problem solved by the AOMCC is the knackered half time pinion, the one at the front of the picture. A member kindly sent me the one behind, which looks unused.

Coming back to the crankcase camshaft bearings which I fitted earlier. When you buy a bush it is usually undersize, and this was no exception. It needed reaming to size, whilst aligned with the bearing in the timing chest - so I used the timing chest bearing as a guide whilst reaming the crankcase end bearing. In this next picture I have the timing chest bolted in place and a 3/4" round bar passed through both bearings to demonstrate their alignment - the bar turns smoothly and freely.

This next picture shows a block of wood I use to support the crankcase whilst working on it. The cam follower pin, crankcase nose etc. fits in the hole.

Before I assembled the engine, I fitted the camshaft so that I could prove the bearings. The camshaft turned smoothly and with no wobble, so I proceeded to dismantle it all again and to assemble the crankshaft into the cases, and to bolt the cases together.

I replaced the assembled cases in the frame and assembled the engine plates. Now that I had the crankcase held securely, I refitted the oil purifier with some Loctite 243, as suggested by Chris Williams at Alpha Bearings. A lot of folks really struggle to get these out and they often come out in pieces; I have had this one out before (and cleaned it before), so it was quite easy, but I was surprised to find it had quite a bit of sludge in it. Chris's point was that they might be difficult to get out, but if they come out when the engine is running the crankcases will be scrap.

Once that was back in, I took the opportunity to use the oil can to pump some oil into the end of the crankshaft, and eventually I saw it emerge around the big end proving that the oil ways were aligned.

Now, I could fit the new half time pinion & camshaft and set the valve timing.

I had a look at the cam followers and selected the best two. The inlet one is quite worn and I should really replace it.

Before I put the timing cover in place I need to fit the magdyno. Before I did that, I cleaned up the slip ring which was a bit mucky.

Here's a new felt seal for the magneto drive:

Next, I fitted the timing gear case with it's small gasket, and added the large gasket with Threebond 1215:

I fitted the timing gear cover and rotated the engine several times to ensure the new gears were quiet and free, adding the camshaft magneto sprocket and the magneto chain, nominally tensioned at this point. I'll finalise that when the barrel is on and I can set the timing.

Since we are nearing the end of activity from this side of the bike, I'll refit the mudguard bracket to the engine plate. The original bolt fitted here looked like it had had an M8 nut forced over a BSC thread, and both were scrap. This is a new stainless 5/16" bolt & nut.

With that done, I can fit the oil tank, hook up the oil lines and fit the oil pump.

Next, I need to clean and paint the barrel, fit the barrel & piston and set the ignition timing. Then I will close up the magneto drive having set the chain tension; I'll then inspect the clutch before I finish building the head. I know that I have to make a valve guide drift and paint the head, and possibly give the valve seats some attention - I'll do that while I wait for the clutch tab washers, nut and any other components I find damaged.

QR50 - Closing up the crankcases

Having put the bearings in, all I have to do to close the crankcases and move on with the project is fit the crankshaft oil seals. These allow the crankshaft to pass through the cases but remain sealed, so that the crankcase compression upon which 2 stroke operation depends is as effective as the designer intended.

Identical seals fit into each crankcase - they also came from Simply Bearings:

You can often push them part way by hand, followed by a little help from a mallet and suitable drift. On the generator side, the seal goes a little way in - the recess locates the generator.

Before you go any further, if you have not done so already, is to dry fit the crankshaft to the cases. Make sure the cases fit together and the crankshaft is free to rotate when the cases are closed up.

Don't forget that the crankshaft needs to be the right way round! It will fit both ways, but this worm drives the oil pump. Oil the seals, bearings and this worm before you attempt to assemble the cases for the last time.

Next job is to seal the crankcases. I'm using some Threebond 1215 silicone gasket to seal the cases. It's grey, discrete and rated at 250°C. Ample for this application.

This is spread thinly over the sealing surfaces and around the bolt holes, followed by mating the cases together and pulling down the bolts.

Rule of Nine

Many moons ago, I had a burning interest in classic cars, many with British Motor Corporation 'A' Series engines. One of the useful tips I learned working on these was the Rule of Nine, a way to easily make sure your engine was in the correct position when adjusting valve clearances.

The thing is, when you adjust the clearance in a particular valve train you need to make sure the cam follower or tappet is on the base circle of the cam, or the clearance will be excessive. You do this by checking the clearance on both valves in a cylinder when that cylinder is at TDC. The thing is, wild valve timing or quietening ramps in the cam profile means you have to be accurate when positioning the engine.

But there is an easier way. Have a look at this camshaft:

That's a spare camshaft for my Square Four - a lot less worn than the one in the engine. On the right hand side of the picture, you see the thread retaining the cam chain sprocket, and that first cam is the exhaust cam for number one cylinder - notice it is pointing straight up and the valve will be fully open.

Here's a Stormy Petrel's eye view of the rockers, so you can see what I am talking about:

Move to the left hand end of the camshaft and we are looking at the last or eighth cam, the cam for the exhaust valve on number three. It's pointing straight down, which means the valve is fully closed and the tappet is on the base circle.

Now look at this picture. The cam that is pointing up is the inlet cam for number two cylinder - it's the fourth cam on the shaft.

The one pointing down is the fifth cam on the shaft, the inlet cam for number four cylinder, so

4 + 5 = 9

Remember the first example where we looked at the first cam and the eighth cam? Well:

1 + 8 = 9

Guess what? It works on the other valves too! So, if the valve on the second cam is fully open (which is very easy to discern) then you know that the valve on cam seven (the exhaust valve for number four) is on the base circle and can be adjusted.

Easy. The Rule of Nine.

By the way, I found that after 1000 miles, most of the clearances needed adjusting - maybe because I didn't do it very well last time.

Finish off with replacement of the rocker box gaskets with Threebond. The fibre gaskets specified by Ariel are not suitable for the sorts of temperatures the cylinder head sees.

Ariel Single Timing Cover Fix

I noticed a while back that the magneto platform flexes more than it should, and this became more apparent when I set the ignition timing recently. It's down to the fact that the bolt retaining the magneto platform to the timing cover is missing, and the reason it is missing is that the boss it screws into is also missing...

Removing the magneto chain cover revealed another problem - a missing screw, replaced with a countersunk brass screw of dubious provenance, and within the cover, a burst screw boss:

So we need a man who can TIG weld aluminium and who has experience repairing old castings...

Here's the timing case, removed and cleaned:

This is the damage to the magneto platform bolt hole:

It went to Roo at  Roadkill Customs in Cromer to be fixed. He TIG welded the holes up:

I've used a stud, rather than the original screw. The original is tapped 5/16" CEI into the alloy, with a hex screw - heaven knows why it was specified like that.

This is a 5/16" CEI x 5/16" BSW stud. At 1 1/8" its a bit long, but can easily be shortened if need be, and the BSW thread will be stronger in the alloy.

I also replaced the rocker oil feed union while I had the timing case off. The thread was a bit mangled; a self grip wrench and a blowlamp were needed to get the old one out.

Draganfly have stock of these - I put this in and tightened it with the aid of a 1/16" twist drill:

I'm using some Threebond 1215 silicone gasket to replace the timing cover. It's grey, discrete and rated at 250°C. Ample for this application.

We need the additional paper washer over the oil pump pickup pipe:

New gasket, applied over a thin bead of Threebond:

And the timing case in place. The magneto pinion is held in place with a Velcro tape, awaiting arrival of the magneto. The breather has been annealed and straightened and the magneto platform is now retained to the new stud with a 5/16" CEI nut and a shakeproof washer.