Showing posts with label MCH60. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MCH60. Show all posts

Thursday, 7 April 2016

Charlie's Shed - Captive Nuts

As part of the Huntmaster fork rebuild, I discovered that one of the captive nuts in the headlamp was damaged and no longer being retained by it's little steel cage; a bit more investigation revealed that it was not the correct nut. You can't buy these, since they are an integral part of the MCH60 headlamp supplied to Ariel by Lucas and as such don't have an Ariel part number; they are not available as spare Lucas parts either (and nor is the shallow-bowl MCH60 headlamp, for that matter).

Its quite easy to make your own, however. Start with some thin cold rolled sheet, about 0.6 mm or 24 SWG; I have to confess I have cut up an old baking tray in the shop which I use for stuff like this! You'll start by making a square nut from some 1/4" or 3/16" plate, and drill and tap a 5/16" CEI hole in the centre. Cut out a 'cross' shape with snips from a small piece of sheet a couple of millimeters wider than the nut, and about 2" longer; the width of the long arms of the cross needs to fit in the square hole in the headlamp shell. You'll need a clearance hole for 5/16 in the centre of the cross.

You should end up with something like this, with the short arms folded part way up the sides of the nut. The short arms are only about 2 mm long.


You can fold up the two long arms of the cross in the vice. Take care to fold them tight around the nut, and fold them at 45 degrees over the top of the nut. You will then fold them back such that they come up through the square hole in the headlamp shell; trim them to about 4 mm and nip off the corners:


Slip the captive nut into the hole in the headlamp shell. Using a large hammer, held in the vice as a dolly, you can fold the short ends of the captive nut outwards into the hole, tightening them down with a hammer. This is how it looks from the inside, with one of the bolts in place:


And this is how it looks from the outside - the fold is less neat than I would have liked it, but it is 100% better than it was before.


Wednesday, 2 March 2016

Huntmaster Forks & Nacelle

So, having cleared some space in the workshop after sorting out the Square Four fork bushes, and having the fork tools out and the assembly details still loaded into my mind, I thought I would check out the nacelle and get an understanding of how it fits, what parts were missing and what parts were broken.

So here is the top view, with the nacelle and the instrument panel in place. All the fasteners are, surprisingly enough, missing - those hexagonal plugs are incorrect for that location I think. The stem nut and its washer are missing, as are the screws for the instrument panel. The instrument panel is a little bent, and may be cracked - there is a lot of braze around the handlebar clamp. In reality this is scarcely visible and will be easily remedied.


Under the instrument panel, everything looks good. I'm not sure whether the headlamp shell is supposed to be fitted grommet 'up' or with the cables exiting downwards...


Something else I did not expect - rear fixing holes. The nacelle is also a little distorted around the bottom yoke - easily fixed. The correct MCH60 headlamp shell is here - I am lucky to have that. The steering lock is missing, but the grub screw is in place and the damper is all together apart from that top nut.


I have the small bridge piece under the nacelle, no fasteners and the holes are a little worn - nothing that will be visible in service. The headlamp shell has lost one of its captive nut cages, though the nut is there. The alloy trim, which fits in those holes on top of the nacelle, is also missing.


Here's the headlamp, with the shell refitted grommet down. Thanks to the guys on the AOMCC Forum, I now know that this isn't the correct way, but it is the only way you can get access to the rim clamp.


Here's one of those top fork nuts. I'm not sure what it is - it's been shortened by someone.


Here's the fork top plug, which fits under the top bolt. Not sure why they needed both, but both of these are in place.


So all in all, not too bad. I have ordered the missing parts from Draganfly; next stop is to strip the legs and see what the bushes look like. The chrome shrouds have been painted, possibly using an etching primer - it looks like the chrome is coming off.

A braze repair makes short work of a crack in the instrument panel, smoothed with a good dose of flap-wheel:


And a little filing has the slots fitting neatly around the handlebar clamp studs: