In the interests of my sanity (I don't think I will be renovating another Honda in a hurry) I have made a small start on the Model A sheet metal repairs, by welding up the battery strap.
Thursday, 26 November 2020
Thursday, 5 November 2020
Cables & Uses
When you have bought your inner wire, store it carefully. One of the key elements of successful soldering is cleanliness - solder will not 'take' to greasy wire or to wire that has been out in the weather for a while. The inner cable should be free of grease and the plated wires should be shiny - dull corroded wires may not solder at all.
Outer Casings, Nipples, ferrules, inners etc.
Inner Cables & Ferrules
Sometimes, nipples are fitted with plastic sleeves to reduce friction. These can get mangled but you can make a sleeve (here's how I do it) to replace them:
Making up a cable
Routing & Laying Out
Cut the Outer Casing
Soft soldering on the other hand involves the use of solder containing various proportions of tin and lead, and temperatures of below 400°C, which will not risk annealing the steel wire. Soft solder can be heated using an electric soldering iron or a solder pot, and the temperature will be easily controlled avoiding the risk of oxidisation or weakening the wire.
So, now we can remove the swaging jig and see that the wire nest fits nicely inside the nipple. We are ready for soldering. Hold the inner cable in the vice, gently, such that the nipple is pointing downwards. We want the solder to flow into the nipple and to stay out of the inner cable; otherwise the inner cable will become stiff and your lever action will be affected.
You'll find it much easier to solder the nipples if you have a solder pot, like this one:
Once cool, clean all the flux off with water. Flux is highly corrosive and you don’t want damage arising from yet more oxidisation. File any excess solder away, and don’t worry if you file off the ends of some strands that are poking out.
Ariel made use of some rather neat steel sprung cable clips. Here are two three-cable originals on my W/NG, retaining the rear brake switch wiring - there are further ones under the tank retaining the clutch, throttle & air cables. These clips are available in stainless steel for one, two or three cables:
Monday, 2 November 2020
The batteries on the SQ4 are now seven years old and are coming to the end of their life, as witnessed by a complete failure to start earlier this year, remedied with the CTEK charger, and a short trip out a few days ago. This one was odd - I had left it idling on the bi-starter to warm up and all was fine (though of course at that speed it wasn't charging). I then took it out and it had no power, eventually dropping onto three cylinders within a few hundred yards of the house - I travelled 1/2 a mile in all, none of it at high enough speeds to charge the battery.
Getting home, the multimeter showed my batteries were down to 5.5 V or so. New batteries are on the horizon!
In the meantime, picking up on a thread in the AOMCC forum I had bought a battery condition monitor from Gammatronix:
I've chosen to fit it in the top of the dummy battery box. It fits in a 14mm hole which I cut with a cone drill.
I've sealed it with some silicone on the outside:
There's a further map #6, which is for low current applications and shows a slow red, yellow or green blink according to voltage level.
Here is a very exciting video of a LED flashing green. Tell your friends, it is riveting stuff:Eagle eyed readers will see the CTEK charging connector I have fitted in the background.