Monday, 20 March 2017

Tool boxes

As I move along with the resurrection of the W/NG, I've got around to sorting out the toolboxes. They both have the wrong knobs, and they both have stripped threads; additionally, the lower toolbox appears to be in the wrong place since the lid won't open very far...


And if you look at this one, its more or less the same:

 Picture from http://twist-grip.blogspot.co.uk/

You'll notice that none of these bikes have pillion footrests. I don't know when this was taken, but some of these bikes have early toolboxes and some have later toolboxes; None of them have pannier frames though:


The pillion footrests won't let the lid descend even when they are in the 'down' position. You can see the damage to the paint:


With it off, I can see that the tool roll has to be carefully packed to get it in. You can also see the knob thread which someone has drilled out to 9 mm...


10 minutes with the TIG sorted that out...


And here is the other one, from the small tool box - this is just worn. Its set up with a small piece of 1.5 mm sheet closing the hole, with a big copper heatsink underneath to help me weld it up.


The small toolbox also has this sleeve around the knob, riveted into the lid. This is missing from the bigger toolbox.


These tabs are threaded 1/4" CEI. I drilled and tapped these through the knob hole:


Gravity knobs fitted with thackeray washers and dual lock nuts:


So that's it, done. Now I can load up the tool boxes - its quite difficult to get the tools in:


Some of the large toolboxes have a document holder in the lid, and a chain to stop them opening too far. The chains appear from some time in 1942 - the part numbers are the same, but the description in the parts book changes. Not sure whether mine should yet... There is something in the lid of this one, and no chain - you can see from the knobs it's quite an early toolbox (the gravity toolbox knobs appeared in 1942):


Some odd paint marks and brass rivets in the lid of my larger toolbox. The paint marks suggest the shape of the document holder in the period picture above:



Sunday, 19 March 2017

Brake Pedal

For some time I have seen the brake pedal above the footrest like this:


It's very difficult to get your foot onto it in that position and quite unnatural. Its caused by the fact that the brake pedal stop is missing, having been replaced by a plain bolt. You can see where the stop used to be, witnessed by he dent in the brake lever:


Its a simple matter to make a new one, out of a 5/16" bolt and a short length of 3/8" round bar, welded together


Here it is in place:


This is how the pedal sits now:


Tuesday, 14 March 2017

Collecting bits

What do we have here? a camshaft, in much better shape than the one in my SQ4:



Saturday, 25 February 2017

Chained for Safety

Various bits of my W/NG are supposed to be chained in place to avoid loss in the field, like the fuel and oil caps and the toolbox lid. Having looked around for the right sort of chain, and not found anything suitable I set about making some.

I figured that I could weave figure-8s from brass wire and solder them together, so I made a hairpin jig out of some 4 mm rod, thinking this would give me a nominally 1/4" chain by the time the loops had sprung apart:


Holding this in the vice, with enough of the legs protruding for me to make a couple of links, I set about weaving:


And some more, pushing down and extending the legs as I went:


When I had made 5 links, and pushing them links down the legs was getting difficult, I stopped and cut the ends of the links. I cut twice on each link, to make sure the loops were equal and that the ends butted down onto the middle wire. I used a regular hacksaw for the prototype:


Here's how they look:


I wanted each link to have a right angle twist, so I twisted them with pliers:


Next job, hook them together and close them up


Make a lot more...


And here's the petrol cap chained in:


Here's the oil tank cap with its original chain, sent to me by JΓΈrgen Andersen of the AOMCC, all the way from Denmark:


Friday, 24 February 2017

More TIG Welding

You might have seen my recent post on my first attempts at TIG. This is the second lesson, repeating the first and adding some specific tasks related to the real welding jobs immediately at hand. To this end, I cut a piece of 1.0 mm cold rolled mild steel sheet, about 5" x 8", and cut three 1" strips so that I ended up with a 5" square and three 1" strips. I cleaned the metal with a wire brush in the bench grinder.

I set the machine up with pure argon shielding at 3-5 l/min; I used a 1.6 mm red band tungsten electrode ground in a long taper; a number 4 ceramic and a welding current of 30-50 Amps. Tungsten stick-out was about 3 mm in most cases.

I planned to do a lap weld. a butt weld, a fillet weld with thin to thin material and with thick to thin material, and to plug some holes. All these welds were to be autogenous - no filler rod was used.

Lap Weld

This is a simple lap weld, with two sheets of 1.0 mm; welding current was 30 Amps. The material was cleaned much more thoroughly this time, and the results are much more pleasing:


Plug Welds

I wanted to test the TIG set on some plug welds: I have to reduce the size of a hole in one of the toolbox lids which is 1.0 mm thick, so this is an attempt to close a hole prior to redrilling. The back of these plugs is the same 1.0 mm sheet that I used for the lap weld.

Again the welder is set to 30 Amps; this is possible a little high as there is some burning here.


This pictures shows good penetration from the lap joint. In the lap joint picture, you can see the penetration from these welds - not quite as good as the lap joint penetration.

Butt Joint

This is a 1.0 mm autogenous butt joint, welder set to 30 Amps. The fit here was much better than the previous attempt, and this shows in the quality of the weld:


Penetration is mostly good:



Fillet Welds

This is a 1.0 mm to 1.0 mm fillet joint. Fit as good for most of the length, worse at the left hand end where I have blown that hole:


Penetration is good too:



Thick to Thin Fillet

This is a 2 mm wall tube fillet welded to a 1.0 mm sheet. Not so successful, but this is more down to access than welding technique.