Thursday, 15 February 2018

New Wheel Bearings - SQ4 Mk1

Here we have an Ariel front hub, with the half width brake. It's the one referred to by Draganfly as the 'Type 3' wheel. It's also the one that deposited that hub full of grease all over the first set of brake shoes I fitted to this bike...

So, this winter it is time for some new wheel bearings. The first job is to pop the cover off the bearing retainer with a large screwdriver:

The bearing retainer needs to be cleaned up and the gunge removed from the holes

This is the tool you use to remove the ring. Don't try and remove those soft brass rings without it...

Once the bearing retainers are out you can drift out the bearings and clean out all the old grease:

SQ4 Front Brake

As part of winter maintenance, I have my front wheel off for new bearings, a new tube and a look at the brake. It appears that I still haven't got it right.

Take a look at this, it is the leading end of the trailing shoe:

To me, this is indicating that I haven't got the adjuster tight enough - there is about 20-30% contact on both shoes, at the cam end - in both shoes, there is no contact at the adjuster end. Here is the leading shoe, trailing end:

In both cases you can see where the lining is worn by contact with the drum. The brake is nothing like as effective as the one on my W/NG, which is obviously a much lighter bike but the brake has much more feel. They are bedding in at the cam end (trailing end of the trailing shoe here):

I'm happy to see that the drum is nice and clean, with no trace of grease

Less happy to see the heat damage to the paint...

Setting the drum up with emery tape and doublesided sticky tape in the traditional way results in much better contact:
 Leading end of trailing shoe:

 Leading end of leading shoe
 Lots of dust after the process is complete:

Saturday, 3 February 2018

Headlamp Rims & Glasses

As part of the winter lighting upgrade I had to change the original, rusty BPF reflector to a H4 fit reflector to suit the new bulb; I bought this from Paul Goff and all was well, until I came to fit the rim to the shell and found a very tight fit - much worse than normal.

Pushing too hard, I cracked the new glass: £35 down the drain.

However, after the event I realised that I wasn't too happy with losing the old Lucas BPF glass, with the Lucas logo in the middle and that actually this was a blessing in disguise, though it might not enhance my beam pattern too well. I decided to replace the broken glass with the old one, that I would extract from the original rusty reflector.

I started with the spun edge of the reflector here:

And I introduced it to the bench grinder, removing the metal until I broke through the fold:

The spun edge of the rim could then be prised off and the old glass released. You can see the poor condition of the silvering:

The glass was in need of a clean, but otherwise came through the process unscathed:

The new reflector had the rest of the broken glass removed, by pushing the glass out with a metal bar through the bulb hole and by removing the edges with pliers. The glass is held in with a relatively soft mastic which you can cut easily, and if you are trying to remove a modern glass and keep it whole you can cut the mastic around the glass, and then lift the edge of the reflector off the glass at a small slot in the reflector (seen on the far side of the picture). You can get a small screwdriver in here and start the removal process:

I used a similar product to put the new glass back in:

Getting the rim on was still a challenge. I removed most of the new paint from the edge of the shell; made sure both the rim and shell were circular; fitted the rim without the lamp unit and checked clearances for the W clips around the rim.

It was not until someone suggested greasing the shell (thanks Les!) that it went on - a bit of silicone grease on the rim had it slipping on easily.

Tuesday, 16 January 2018

Winter Work on the SQ4

It's time to think about winter jobs on the SQ4. The W/NG is the go-to bike and with no chrome makes an ideal machine for the winter, so if I can resist the temptation to tinker with it I can get on with the SQ4 and still have a bike to ride. The SQ4 jobs are:
  1. Fix the speedo and get the blurred dial replaced
  2. Get a new slow-running screw for the Solex
  3. Remove the indicators - I have decided to do this, because they look awful and because the indicators are regular tungsten bulbs and the load causes the LED headlamp to flash with the indicators. This is a bit disconcerting at night...
  4. Upgrade the headlight again
  5. Replace the front wheel bearings with sealed bearings
  6. Replace the front inner tube which leaks slowly
  7. Look at the brakes again as they bed in
  8. Make a new tool roll
  9. Fit a couple of transfers
  10. Change the oil tank for the one with a good filler neck thread
  11. Make a lower chain guard
I'll make a separate post for the chain guard. It's here.

But first, checking the bike over reveals that the horn doesn't work. A quick nose about with the multimeter reveals no supply at the horn, so we look at the 15A horn fuse. This is blown, and was probably too low for the horn so we will change it for a 20A. This works fine and consistently, so we will leave this for now. We'll also pull the indicator circuit fuse...

I've stripped out the headlight, in preparation for sending the speedo away, uprating the headlamp and removing the indicators.The speedo has gone to Russell at Chronometric Instrument Services for a clean, new springs and a new face:

And here it is, back again just over a week later:

Soundly packed with lots of bubble wrap

New face, all numbers in correct positions

Guarantee sticker on the back

New screws and nuts
Now we can put the headlamp shell back in place with new bolts:

This is the new headlight bulb and it's driver:

It's from CDRC, like some other bulbs I have bought and is their 5th Generation LED headlamp bulb shown here. Not cheap, especially as to fit it I needed an H4 reflector which I bought from Paul Goff as usual. It's the 7" Lucas reflector with a pilot bulb. The bulb is very nicely made - aluminium, powder coated black with nice elastomeric seals and good quality connectors. I've chosen a 6V bulb, so that I can keep the ignition & generating systems running at 6V.

The bulb fits into an adapter ring, which is provided with the bulb. This allows you to twist the bulb through 360 degrees, offering left, right or central dip:

Whilst the bulb looks quite long it appears to fit into the SSU700 shell quite nicely. The cable goes off to the driver box which I will mount in the bottom of the shell.

All done and back together:

Sunday, 14 January 2018

SQ4 Chainguard

A while back, I made a post in which I converted a Anstey-frame single cylinder lower chain guard into a rigid frame one for my W/NG - and I also spoke about making one for the SQ4.

I had a rigid frame chain guard for a SQ4, which I was planning to convert but I have since been approach by someone who needs just that, so I plan to make a Anstey Frame chain guard from scratch.

I have the rear bracket spare from the one I used for the W/NG, so I just have to make the front bracket and the guard itself which I will copy from the rigid frame version... Simples!

Here's a 'patinated' sheet of 18 SWG cold rolled sheet, juts like the original was made from all those years ago.

Using a tape on the original guard, we find that it is 13 cm wide, so we mark a suitable strip on the sheet and draw around the original with a spirit marker:

The old jig saw makes short work of cutting it out:

Next up, bending up. I'm using a piece of timber as a bending 'iron' here, it has a radius planed into the edge to mimic that of the original chain guard, and the flat side of the guard is clamped securely to the board:

You can bend a piece of 18 SWG this size by hand, and the fact that the board is more narrow than the chain guard's final width means you can over-bend it a little, to finish at the required 90 degree angle:

With the first bend done, we can swap sides and make the second bend in the same way. This is possible, but more difficult to bend by hand because of course we have much less length to lever with. Turns out OK though, but there are a few adjustments needed to align the ends:

Here's a view from underneath of the guard and the front mounting point looking up at the chain oiler channel. At this point in time, the guard needed some adjustment to the width:

Here's the other end:

And the point where the rear mount will go:

And the front mount, from the outside:

Tacked up and trial fitted:

Clearance looks adequate, though some adjustment might be required at the front: