FH - coming together

 This is going to be a very short blog post and is just here to record that the top end of the Huntmaster is back together and currently waiting for the tank to go on, when it will be ready for the road again. 

As you can see I have cut the rocker box oil line and bent it out of the way of the bottom of the tank. It now sports a short length of flexible hose and some hose clips to allow the rocker box to be removed without interference from the oil line banjos. The rocker box has been on and off several times getting the gaskets right and developing the sequence of bolting up so the absence of the banjos has been useful.

FH - update from the bench

 Yes, the FH is still on the bench after I have been faffing about with the Square Four. The issue is that when I put the rocker box back on I squashed one of the studs for the head steady into its nut and damaged the thread - so the rocker box had to come off again. I decided to buy some new half nuts and reduced hex nuts to tidy up their appearance and I just got round to putting it all back together.

Of course it still takes two goes because as usual I have forgotten that you have to start the nuts for the head steady and the two reduced hex nuts at the rear due to curves in the cylinder head which prevent you getting a nut on...

FH - still on the bench, but looking good!

 It's been a while, or it feels like it. It's actually almost a week since I did anything to the FH - I've done a couple of railway turns and the weather has been a bit wet.

The head bolts are torqued to 32 lbs ft or so. I tightened them down using a 1/2" square ratchet (as per the manual, as tight as I could get them), then checked them with a torque wrench set to 32 lbs.ft. - so they may be tighter than that. The 32 lbs.ft seems to be bandied around a lot in connection with iron-head A10s.

This is the drive side cylinder - 140 psi or so. this was showing 75 psi on the last test, and is the cylinder that weeps oil.

This is the timing side cylinder, which showed 95 psi in the last test.

Now, obviously these numbers are a lot higher than we saw before, but don't be fooled, this is partly because I had the throttle open during the test - it was closed previously. The big win here is not the high numbers, but the fact that the two cylinders are no longer 20 psi, or around 25% different.

I bought a couple of sets of rocker box gaskets on eBay - they are identical to BSA A10 rocker box gaskets, though the tappet cover gaskets are different. I fitted these with Wellseal last time, and destroyed them lifting the rocker box. This time, I'm going to use Threebond 1215 on one side with grease on the other.

I'll have to find a moment to put it on.

FH - rocker box

It's pouring with rain here today so badly that I can barely take the dogs out, so I've taken a little while to come and varnish an oak window sill and fit the rocker box to the Huntmaster. 

We start with Wellseal on the rocker box gasket faces and stick the gaskets in place. Next we'll put another coat on the cylinder head gasket faces and manoeuvre the rocker box into place over the pushrods.

I'm using a small USB camera connected to my phone to have a look in some of the small spaces around the top of the engine. The camera is small enough to go down towards the pushrod tunnels so that we can verify that the bottom end of the push rods are sitting in the tappets properly.

The camera fits through the inspection hole in the top of the rocker box and through the big spaces at the front and back to allow us to see whether the push rods are engaging with the rockers properly. You can get a small screwdriver in front or rear to nudge the pushrods into place.

With a bit of fiddling, I got the rocker box down and bolted. These bolts are actually supposed to have shakeproof washers so I shall have to change them later but the gaskets are pulled down properly. I've also fitted the rocker box oil lines.

So this all went pretty well except for one thing. Whilst the rocker box is down and I've managed to adjust the exhaust rockers to a reasonable clearance, there is no way that I can get the adjusters far enough into the rockers to bring the inlet rocker clearance to specification. I'm not sure what's wrong with this, it might be worn adjusters, it might be worn pushrods...

Wish I had had the foresight to measure the pushrods before I started...

FH - fitting the cylinder head

 Fitting the cylinder head didn't prove to be the routine operation that I had envisaged. I started with a coat of Wellseal on the top of the block and on the top of the gasket. Prior to this I had cleaned out the threads in the block with a new tap and cleaned the threads on the head bolts with a new die. Two of the head bolts were damaged and needed replacement.

Lowering the heavy head into place was the usual faff but eventually I got a couple of the bolts dropped in on the near side. I wanted to put the corresponding bolts in on the far side next but for some reason I couldn't get them to mate with the threats in the barrel. After a lot of messing about I pulled the head off again to have a look:

It's sometimes a challenge when you buy pattern parts - in this case you can see that the bolt pattern in the gasket is wrong and the holes don't line up. I decided, rather than to use the composite gasket in the kit, that I would anneal the original gasket and reuse it. This is very straightforward - it's just a question of heating the copper to cherry red and leaving it to cool followed by a clean up with some Scotchbrite pad.

After that, and a second coat of Wellseal, the head bolts all went in easily. Neither Ariel nor the BSA service sheets indicate a recommended torque for these bolts but they do show a pattern you have to follow when tightening them up:

All that went swimmingly, as expected, and we now have the head fitted. Of course fitting the head opens up whole new set of work faces including the carburettor, the rocker box and the exhaust pipes. OK, the exhausts will have to wait until I have finished the primary case and I'm going to repair the stops on the centre stand as well since access will be better without the pipes in place.

More later.

FH - rocker box refurbishment

With the cylinder head coming on, it’s time to take a look at the rocker box. We won’t be doing too much, as a number of folk have told me how a BSA A10 rocker box fits straight on and is a much better design - but I don’t have one of those.

We’ll start by stripping out the rocker shafts and cleaning the box.

While the lathe is in action, we’ll replace the 5/16" BSW stud that wasn’t holding the cover on - the covers are held on with a special 1/4" CEI sleeve nut. What we need is a stepped stud, like the original in the inlet side but with a 5/16" BSW thread to go in the aluminium casting. Somebody has already recut the thread in the casting to suit the replacement stud.

We'll start with a bit of 5/16" mild steel round bar. Because it's 1/4" in diameter for most of its length we'll need to be careful when we turn it. What we will do is use the travelling steady on the lathe to support the slender quarter inch section as we turn it to size.

 This turns out pretty well especially when we make a finishing cut with a round nose tool. Cutting the 5/16 BSW thread, I've set the die to its largest diameter such that the thread is a little oversize.

This is where the oversized thread pays off - when it's fitted in the box the the stud fits quite tightly and hopefully won't back out.

The next step is to get the box in the cleaning tank for degreasing; we'll then examine it for damage and polish the outside.