I might have mentioned a few times that the hunt master has been burning oil from the drive side cylinder, manifested as an oily exhaust pipe, and oily spark plug, and smoke when pulling away. It's always done this ever since rebuild. I had been hoping that this was just really bedding in but after 550 odd miles I think I have to admit there's something wrong. Since it's back in the workshop for its 500 mile service the rocker box has to come off anyway to retorque the head and we can do some investigation.
I had hoped that the rocker box drain might be blocked and excess oil being sucked down the exhaust valve guide with a poked down the drilling with a bicycle spoke reveals the hole is completely open - as I had expected since I cleared the hole out during rebuild.
Removing the head revealed this - a bit of an oily mess on the drive side (that's on the right of the picture) and a fairly normal looking though dark combustion chamber on the timing side.
And then this! That bear piston crown is the drive side, the one that is smoking. There is barely any carbon deposit there at all compared to the other side which looks quite normal to me. It should be noted that the mixture is quite rich at the moment as the mileage is not really high enough to do any proper plug chops.
This is the timing side exhaust valve.
And the drive side exhaust valve, looking a lot hotter.
Here is the upper side of the head gasket - that is the side that touches the head itself. The area within the red ring shows I think a leak from the cylinder into the head bolt drilling and possibly into the drive side exhaust valve drain. Perhaps this explains both the smoke and the oil coming from the cylinder head joint and dripping onto the primary drive case.
It pays to be careful when removing the cylinder. I released all the nuts and made sure that I collected them all with their washers and put them aside. Next we used the leather mallet to loosen the cylinder joint which was quite straightforward - not forgetting that the forward magneto pickup has to come out to remove the cylinder.
It's wise to lift the cylinder with the pistons in their uppermost position so that you can lift the skirts above the crankcase mouth to get the couple of pieces of wood into the joint to support the weight of the cylinder. You can then introduce a suitable cloth into the gap to prevent any broken bits of ring or circlip falling into the crankcase.
Once you have lifted off the cylinder the wooden battons can support the pistons.
Removing the cylinder very carefully reveals two pistons in very good shape - to be expected since they have only done 550 miles. The purpose of this exercise of course is to check that the rings are sound and indeed they are so we can take some comfort in the knowledge that the compression test we did months ago is supported by rings which appear to be in very good condition.
Investigating the head gasket sealing area and the bolt holes reveals a couple of interesting points. Well, one main point really and that is that most of the cylinder head bolts open into a gap between the fins, a few fins below the head joint and secondly that one of the front middle two bolts doesn't pull down properly as the thread appears to be very tight. This is in the area where we suspect the leak to have been.
We will leave this for now as I have a day on the railway tomorrow and some other bits to do. I've made a post on the FH Facebook group to make sure that I've selected the right tap to clean these threads out!










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