There's nothing wrong with the single rear shock absorber on the QR50 other than that it is covered in the ubiquitous red paint. I'll strip it for cleaning, and to record how you do it.
If you have to dismantle a shock absorber, get a spring compressor. Springs, especially springs on mono-shock bikes store a lot of energy and you need to have it under control - you don't want it released unexpectedly into some tender part of your anatomy.
This little set is perfect for my needs - each compressor hooks over the spring. You'll need a different type for shrouded springs, like the ones on the FH. I'll cover those in a different post.
Here's how they are used. You will need to support them (I use a large adjustable spanner) while you operate the drive wrench, or you will risk they coming 'unhooked' at one end.
When you have them compressed enough, you can get a spanner on this nut. You might need to remove the rubber mount to get a bar in the eye, as the nut should be tight:
Here's the spring off. The bottom collar is loose and is retained by a circlip around the damper. It will slide off upwards, but in this case the damper worked fine and the whole lot just needed cleaning up on the wire wheel. The damper rod should move smoothly but exhibit resistance in both directions.
The spring is power coated and cleans up with soap and water:
I've replaced the spring the other way up. This make no difference to the way it operates but it makes it a bit easier to use the compressors, since they are operating on more coils:
And that's it, back together and refreshed:
If you have to dismantle a shock absorber, get a spring compressor. Springs, especially springs on mono-shock bikes store a lot of energy and you need to have it under control - you don't want it released unexpectedly into some tender part of your anatomy.
This little set is perfect for my needs - each compressor hooks over the spring. You'll need a different type for shrouded springs, like the ones on the FH. I'll cover those in a different post.
Here's how they are used. You will need to support them (I use a large adjustable spanner) while you operate the drive wrench, or you will risk they coming 'unhooked' at one end.
When you have them compressed enough, you can get a spanner on this nut. You might need to remove the rubber mount to get a bar in the eye, as the nut should be tight:
Here's the spring off. The bottom collar is loose and is retained by a circlip around the damper. It will slide off upwards, but in this case the damper worked fine and the whole lot just needed cleaning up on the wire wheel. The damper rod should move smoothly but exhibit resistance in both directions.
The spring is power coated and cleans up with soap and water:
I've replaced the spring the other way up. This make no difference to the way it operates but it makes it a bit easier to use the compressors, since they are operating on more coils:
And that's it, back together and refreshed:
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