Then, a dose of Threebond on the flange between the two halves of the case, and bolt them up. This immediately reveals that we are missing three bolts - we have the nice stainless screw in the top, that came from Acme, but I have not sourced the others. So we can get on, one comes from stock - it's the right bolt, but the wrong material.
The clutch sprocket bearing cage goes in next, well greased and followed by the twelve needle rollers, courtesty of John Budgen:
Then the chainwheel goes on:
A quick spin reveals a horrible grinding noise... But I know what that is - I've forgotten the ring behind the chainwheel. Primary chain goes on, courtesy of Draganfly, with the clip safely fitted in the right direction:
I found that the primary chain is much easier to adjust if you flip up the rear mudguard - the access to the adjuster is much better.
So, all done. I need a few parts:
- bolts for the two halves of the rear case
- the bolt for the lower chainguard to the rear primary case
- a spacer for the rear case to the frame
- a split pin for the shock absorber
- spring washers for the clutch dome screws.
But that's it for the moment. Here it is, all together:
I'm actually a little surprised you didn't put the drive chain on before you put the primary case cover on. Either way though this little project of yours is coming along nicely, We are having a bit of a problem with my dads though, most of our problems come from the fact it's just been sitting out in the elements for 30 years, thankfully we live in a fairly dry place so the damage isn't that bad but it's still hard and takes allot of WD-40 on every last part to get it to budge even just a little. Mostly I'm loosening the parts and any pieces that come off go into bags marked with what they are. Progress on it has been slow but not from lack of trying to get something done with it.
ReplyDeleteWell you're right. I did consider putting the chain on - I even picked it up and took it out to the shed. What stopped me was the realisation that I hadn't had the brakes lined yet. The way I do this is to take the shoes, brake plate and drum to a local bus & truck spares outfit who make up and fit soft linings to the right size - but they need the drum. As you know I'd have to take the chain off again to do that!
ReplyDeleteI realised too that the lower chain guard doesn't really fit, at the front end. I'm going to leave the chain off until I realise what is going on there, to save me getting covered in grease and the chain getting covered in grit!
Keep at it with those rusty fasteners! you'll get there in the end
Well, you could have run the chain over the gearbox sprocket and let it sit without having to place it over the drive sprocket on the wheel. But still the chain guard not lining up? Are there gaps between the guards fitting together or are the bolt holes not lining up. If there are gaps between the metal I can tell you there were several gaskets on my fathers bike within the chain guard assembly. IF the holes are not lining up then that is a different problem all together and could mean either the guard is warped or is the wrong guard.
DeleteBut yeah, the rust is doing allot more than just making them hard to turn it also means we have to be more careful or the bolts nuts and screws will round out or strip as they are being worked, and having many non stock parts on the bike I don't want to brag but right now we are dealing with the 10TT9 carburetor that was fitted to the bike. Don't know if the oil pump was also changed out but since it was turned into a drag racing bike I'd imagine so, but the bolds on the carb are heavily chewed up and it's going to take a bit of money to fix it, not enough to go searching for a carb in better condition but enough that we have to take the whole thing apart and try to salvage what parts we can before replacing any. Another problem is there is what appears to be a scrape in the primary chain cover, any tips on how to repair something like that on an aluminum casting?